None found today
|2.2||Roof Drainage Systems||X||X|
|2.4||Skylights, Chimneys & Other Roof Penetrations||X||X|
None found today
This report is an opinion of the general quality and condition of the roofing. As such the inspector cannot and does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof has leaked in the past, leaks now, or is subject to future leakage.
Gutters, downspouts and subsurface drains are not water tested for leakage or blockage. These components require regular maintenance to avoid water problems at the roof and foundation.
I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or the eaves: A. the roof-covering materials; B. the gutters; C. the downspouts; D. the vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, and other roof penetrations; and E. the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of roof-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of active roof leaks. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. walk on any roof surface. B. predict the service life expectancy. C. inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. move insulation. F. inspect antennae, satellite dishes, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments. G. walk on any roof areas that appear, in the inspectors opinion, to be unsafe. H. walk on any roof areas if doing so might, in the inspector's opinion, cause damage. I. perform a water test. J. warrant or certify the roof. K. confirm proper fastening or installation of any roof-covering material.
Shingles were observed to be in good condition. No signs of aging, lifting, or curling.
Gutter corners appear to have been patched from what I assume is water leaks. Because of the cold weather I cannot say if they are currently leaking however, I do recommend that a roofing professional assess the gutter system for repair and/or replacement.
The metal chimney shows evidence of rust and/or rusting. Recommend monitoring the chimney which may have to be replaced at some point.
|3.1||Siding, Flashing & Trim||X||X|
|3.3||Walkways, Patios & Driveways||X|
|3.4||Eaves, Soffits & Fascia||X||X|
|3.5||Vegetation, Grading, Drainage & Retaining Walls||X|
|3.8||Guard Rails & Hand Rails||X||X|
|3.9||Exterior Foundation Wall||X|
Stucco is typically applied in coats called the base, scratch, brown and finish coats. For some exterior wall applications, lath, mesh or netting is installed with the stucco. On some stucco applications, there may be a weather-resistant barrier installed behind the stucco. This barrier is typically asphalt-impregnated felt paper. It protects the framing (whether wood framing or metal) from moisture that may pass through the stucco covering. The barrier is referred to as a WRB (weather-resistant barrier) or MRB (moisture-resistant barrier).
Re-dash, Never Paint Stucco
The reason most homeowners paint their stucco is because the typical cost of restuccoing (re-dashing) is more than just hiring a painter to paint over the existing stucco. Although seemingly less expensive upfront, painting stucco causes significantly higher long-term maintenance costs and may even damage your home. Paint is a sealing agent and will seal all the pores, which consequently seals moisture inside of your home. Your home is not able to breathe and mold can grow between the layers of your home. This excess moisture will cause the paint layer to peel and crack. On a stucco surface, because of the trapped moisture, paint starts decaying more quickly than on a traditional surface. The correct repair is to hire a sandblasting contractor to remove the existing paint and then to re-stucco the surface properly. The existing paint needs to be removed because the paint layer will prohibit proper bonding of a new stucco coat. Current methods of redashing provide a product that lasts decades and far longer than any paint job.
Re-dash consists of a single layer of the Portland cement, with colorant applied to cover and freshen the surface. Repairs are made to cracks and minor imperfections in the surface and then the new coat is applied. This will provide a new look and keep with the integrity of the existing finish. If a new texture is required, a thicker coat is required, and can add additional expense.
It is the nature of stucco to experience some cracking. These small cracks are normal and do not require any maintenance or repair. If a crack exceeds 1/8 of an inch in width then the crack should be repaired. Repairing stucco cracks is completed by adding a small amount of stucco to the crack. Do not put caulk into the crack. If you experience a crack wider than 1/8 of an inch please contact your contractor so the proper resolution can be determined. Typically a larger crack can be broken back and patched or an expansion joint can be added.
A sill at a window should be sloped. Windows have nearly horizontal surfaces that can
collect water. Functional sills are sloped to divert water away from the
window. Windowsills have a projection designed to divert water away from the exterior
One detail to check for at a windowsill is something that creates a capillary
break. Under the projection of the windowsill, there should be a detail such as a groove
or cut. This detail should run along the length of the windowsill and parallel to the
wall. This capillary break stops water from running under the projection and back to the
wall and forces the water to drip.
Some of the window wells are quite deep. This can post as a safety hazard for people who could accidentally trip of fall in them. I recommend the installation of window well covers which also protect basement windows from moisture intrusion.
The horizontal area of the window well for an emergency escape-and-rescue opening should be at least 9 square feet. It should have a horizontal projection and width of at least 36 inches each way.
EXCEPTION: Ladders or steps may project into the space 6 inches.
Wells with a vertical depth of at least 44 inches should have a permanent ladder or
steps, with an inside width of 12 inches minimum, and at least 3 inches from the wall,
and should be spaced no greater than 18 inches apart vertically.
This report does not include geological or soil conditions. For this information a Geotechnical Engineer should be consulted.
Outbuildings such as storage sheds, etc. not related to the house are not included in the inspection, unless specifically requested.
This inspection does not certify the safe operation on any automatic garage door opening mechanism.
Unable to observe most of the exterior foundation wall due to stucco covering the majority of the exposed foundation
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the exterior wall-covering materials, flashing and trim; B. all exterior doors; C. adjacent walkways and driveways; D. stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps; E. porches, patios, decks, balconies and carports; F. railings, guards and handrails; G. the eaves, soffits and fascia; H. a representative number of windows; and I. vegetation, surface drainage, retaining walls and grading of the property, where they may adversely affect the structure due to moisture intrusion. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of exterior wall-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. inspect items that are not visible or readily accessible from the ground, including window and door flashing. C. inspect or identify geological, geotechnical, hydrological or soil conditions. D. inspect recreational facilities or playground equipment. E. inspect seawalls, breakwalls or docks. F. inspect erosion-control or earth-stabilization measures. G. inspect for safety-type glass. H. inspect underground utilities. I. inspect underground items. J. inspect wells or springs. K. inspect solar, wind or geothermal systems. L. inspect swimming pools or spas. M. inspect wastewater treatment systems, septic systems or cesspools. N. inspect irrigation or sprinkler systems. O. inspect drainfields or dry wells. P. determine the integrity of multiple-pane window glazing or thermal window seals.
Flashing & trim pieces were improperly installed, which could result in moisture intrusion and damaging leaks. Recommend a qualified siding contractor evaluate and repair.
Stucco at several points of the exterior shows that it is in need of repair. Recommend stucco professional to remedy in order to prevent possible water intrusion
Door sill and/or trim is loose, deteriorated or worn and repair or replacement should be considered.
One or more sections of the fascia are rotted, decayed and/or require paint. Recommend qualified roofer evaluate & repair.
Trees observed overhanging the roof. This can cause damage to the roof and prevent proper drainage. Recommend a qualified tree service trim to allow for proper drainage.
Basement window flashings do not extend full width of windows which may lead to water penetration over time.
Also, covering window bars with stucco does make for a lasting water tight system.
Recommend professional to replace with appropriate flashings.
Basement window appears to be in an unfinished state, leaving untreated wood exposed to the elements which will lead to wood decay/rot. This may also allow water intrusion. I recommend contacting a qualified window installer to evaluate and remedy.
Guard rails were missing during time of inspection. Steps with 4 or more risers require a handrail.
Recommend installation of handrail and guard at front steps to prevent falls.
|4.3||Walls & Firewalls||X|
|4.5||Garage Door Opener||X||X|
|4.6||Occupant Door (From garage to inside of home)||X|
Garage wall switch was inoperable at time of inspection. Recommend testing the wall switch and possible replacement.
Here is a DIY link that shows you how.
10.1 The inspector shall inspect: F. installed ovens, ranges, surface cooking appliances, microwave ovens, dishwashing machines, and food waste grinders by using normal operating controls to activate the primary function. 10.2 The inspector is NOT required to inspect: G. installed and free-standing kitchen and laundry appliances not listed in Section 10.1.F. H. appliance thermostats including their calibration, adequacy of heating elements, self cleaning oven cycles, indicator lights, door seals, timers, clocks, timed features, and other specialized features of the appliance. I. operate, or con rm the operation of every control and feature of an inspected appliance.
Dishwasher was operated using normal controls and showed no signs of leaks.
Refrigerator was operating normally at time of inspection.
Oven and range functioned as intended on the day of the inspection.
Washing machine functioned as intended on the day of the inspection, and no leaks were detected.
Dryer functioned as intended on the day of the inspection.
|6.2||Basements & Crawlspaces||X|
|6.5||Roof Structure & Attic||X|
Foundation Cracks and Water:
It is important to understand that all concrete and masonry construction will develop
cracks due to shrinkage effects. As these cracks widen over time (usually due to small
amounts of differential settlement in the soil supporting the foundation), the pathways
for water intrusion through the foundation increase.
Visible cracks are usually a concern to homeowners even though they often have
little effect on the structural integrity of the foundation. The question becomes how to
best control these cracks.
The optimum location for reinforcement to control cracking and prevent differential
settlement is at the top and bottom of the foundation wall in a horizontal direction.
Epoxy Sealant for Masonry Cracks
An epoxy sealant can be injected into cracks of masonry foundation walls. Poured
concrete foundation walls are often found to have cracks. Typically, these cracks are
shrinkage cracks, and not an indication of major structural problems. The only problem
with a shrinkage crack in a poured concrete foundation wall, other than cosmetic
appearance, is water penetration through the crack. Epoxy sealant is an easy and
relatively inexpensive solution to the water problem.
Concealed and/or obstructed structural components not inspected.
No engineering or structural analysis is performed during this inspection. A structural engineer should be consulted if necessary.
This inspection does not verify the adequacy of any structural system or component.
Approximately 95% of basement foundation not visible due to finished basement
Inspection of floor structure was limited in the basement due to drywall covering almost all of the components.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the foundation; B. the basement; C. the crawlspace; and D. structural components. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of foundation; and B. the location of the access to the under-floor space. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of wood in contact with or near soil; B. observed indications of active water penetration; C. observed indications of possible foundation movement, such as sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames, and unlevel floors; and D. any observed cutting, notching and boring of framing members that may, in the inspector's opinion, present a structural or safety concern. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter any crawlspace that is not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to him/herself. B. move stored items or debris. C. operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. identify the size, spacing, span or location or determine the adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists, joist spans or support systems. E. provide any engineering or architectural service. F. report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.
|7.2||Normal Operating Controls||X|
|7.4||Vents, Flues & Chimneys||X|
|7.5||Gas/LP Firelogs & Fireplaces||X|
|7.6||Presence of Installed Heat Source in Each Room||X|
|7.7||Solid Fuel Heating Device (Fireplace, Woodstove)||X|
6 years According to serial number
Inspection of the furnace heat exchanger for evidence of cracks or holes can only be done by dismantling the unit. This is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Thermostats are not checked for calibration or timed function.
Underground fuel storeage tanks are not part of this inspection.
No pressure tests are performed on coolant systems, and no representation is made regarding coolant charge or line integrity.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the heating system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the heating system; B. the energy source; and C. the heating method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any heating system that did not operate; and B. if the heating system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or evaluate the interior of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, heat exchangers, combustion air systems, fresh-air intakes, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, geothermal systems, or solar heating systems. B. inspect fuel tanks or underground or concealed fuel supply systems. C. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. light or ignite pilot flames. E. activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. override electronic thermostats. G. evaluate fuel quality. H. verify thermostat calibration, heat anticipation, or automatic setbacks, timers, programs or clocks.
Furnace was corroded in one or more areas. This could be the result of improper venting, which the source would need to be identified. Recommend a HVAC contractor evaluate and repair.
Since both the furnace and gas fired water heater are within a bedroom, I recommend the buyer confirm with local code by-laws as to whether this is acceptable practice or not. Furnaces and water heaters draw in combustion air which removes air from the sleeping area.
Return air registers were missing or insufficient in the basement. This can result in poor heating efficiency. Although this is not a defect, I recommend a qualified HVAC contractor evaluate and remedy.
Several heat vents were installed partially under walls which is not best practice.
Recommend a qualified HVAC specialist to evaluate and make recommendations.
|8.1||Main Water Shut-off Device||X|
|8.2||Drain, Waste, & Vent Systems||X||X|
|8.3||Water Supply, Distribution Systems||X|
|8.4||Hot Water Heater, Controls, Flues & Vents||X||X|
|8.5||Fuel Storage & Distribution Systems||X|
|8.8||Bathtubs(s) and shower enclosures||X||X|
|8.12||Exterior Hose Bibs||X|
3 years according to serial number.
I recommend flushing & servicing your water heater tank annually for optimal performance. Water temperature should be set to at least 120 degrees F to kill microbes and no higher than 130 degrees F to prevent scalding.
Concealed/Underground plumbing not inspected or judged for leaks or deterioration.
Water treatment systems not inspected.
Isolating/relief and main valves not tested.
Testing for water quality, lead and other hazardous materials is not part of this inspection.
Integrity of septic tanks and leaching beds is not part of this inspection. A licensed installer should be consulted.
Integrity and capacity of well water supply installations is not part of this inspection. A licensed well driller should be consulted.
Solar heating systems not part of this inspection.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the main water supply shut-off valve; B. the main fuel supply shut-off valve; C. the water heating equipment, including the energy source, venting connections, temperature/pressure-relief (TPR) valves, Watts 210 valves, and seismic bracing; D. interior water supply, including all fixtures and faucets, by running the water; E. all toilets for proper operation by flushing; F. all sinks, tubs and showers for functional drainage; G. the drain, waste and vent system; and H. drainage sump pumps with accessible floats. II. The inspector shall describe: A. whether the water supply is public or private based upon observed evidence; B. the location of the main water supply shut-off valve; C. the location of the main fuel supply shut-off valve; D. the location of any observed fuel-storage system; and E. the capacity of the water heating equipment, if labeled. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously; B. deficiencies in the installation of hot and cold water faucets; C. mechanical drain stops that were missing or did not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs; and D. toilets that were damaged, had loose connections to the floor, were leaking, or had tank components that did not operate. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. light or ignite pilot flames. B. measure the capacity, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. inspect the interior of flues or chimneys, combustion air systems, water softener or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-off valves, floor drains, lawn sprinkler systems, or fire sprinkler systems. D. determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature or adequacy of the water supply. E. determine the water quality, potability or reliability of the water supply or source. F. open sealed plumbing access panels. G. inspect clothes washing machines or their connections. H. operate any valve. I. test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage or functional overflow protection. J. evaluate the compliance with conservation, energy or building standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, backflow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. determine whether there are sufficient cleanouts for effective cleaning of drains. M. evaluate fuel storage tanks or supply systems. N. inspect wastewater treatment systems. O. inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. inspect water storage tanks, pressure pumps, or bladder tanks. Q. evaluate wait time to obtain hot water at fixtures, or perform testing of any kind to water heater elements. R. evaluate or determine the adequacy of combustion air. S. test, operate, open or close: safety controls, manual stop valves, temperature/pressure-relief valves, control valves, or check valves. T. examine ancillary or auxiliary systems or components, such as, but not limited to, those related to solar water heating and hot water circulation. U. determine the existence or condition of polybutylene plumbing. V. inspect or test for gas or fuel leaks, or indications thereof.
Basement waste pipe was missing cap which may allow sewer gases in to the house. Recommend sealing off this pipe to prevent this.
Although there appeared to be signs of previous waste pipe leaks, none were observed on the day of the inspection.
Recommend monitoring for signs of future leaks.
Water heater is improperly installed or in a dangerous location. "Type B" gas vent is running through drywall which is not allowed. Type B gas vents require a MINIMUM 1" CLEARANCE from combustibles as these vents heat up which can pose a fire hazard. Recommend qualified plumber evaluate & repair/relocate.
TPR valve and extension were located and appear to be properly installed. If missing or improperly installed this can lead to severe burns if the TPR valve is exercised.
Caulking/sealant in need of repair to prevent water from penetrating floor/wall areas surrounding tub/shower enclosure.
All bathtub(s) and shower(s) were tested using normal operating controls and functioned as intended.
Staining noted on basement shower ceiling. This could be due to the bathroom fan not being operated during and after showers which is needed to exhaust moist air outside.
Wood rot noted around entry to basement shower enclosure
Recommend replacing to maintain water tightness
Due to the excess caulking observed, the drain assembly is suspect as to whether it was finished properly.
At buyer's discretion, I recommend replacing replacing tile immediately adjacent to drain and ensuring a proper assembly which can only be confirmed by opening up a small part of the shower floor.
Main floor shower faucets seem to be too loose for a proper install. This could lead to plumbing leaks. Recommend a licensed plumber evaluate.
|9.1||Service Entrance Conductors||X||X|
|9.2||Main & Subpanels, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device||X|
|9.3||Branch Wiring Circuits, Breakers & Fuses||X||X|
|9.4||Lighting Fixtures, Switches & Receptacles||X||X|
|9.5||GFCI & AFCI||X||X|
|9.7||Carbon Monoxide Detectors||X|
Determining the operational status of smoke detectors is not part of this home inspection.
The presence or functionality of carbon monoxide detectors is not part of this home inspection.
Concealed or obstructed electrical components not inspected.
Aluminum wireing connections should be checked by a licensed electrician familiar with aluminum wiring.
Services less than 100 Amps. may need upgrading for normal operation of a current home's electrical demands, and many insurance companies won't insure a home with 60 Amp. wiring. Please consult with your insurer and a licensed electrician, if needed.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the service drop; B. the overhead service conductors and attachment point; C. the service head, gooseneck and drip loops; D. the service mast, service conduit and raceway; E. the electric meter and base; F. service-entrance conductors; G. the main service disconnect; H. panelboards and over-current protection devices (circuit breakers and fuses); I. service grounding and bonding; J. a representative number of switches, lighting fixtures and receptacles, including receptacles observed and deemed to be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)-protected using the AFCI test button, where possible; K. all ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacles and circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs using a GFCI tester, where possible; and L. smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the main service disconnect's amperage rating, if labeled; and B. the type of wiring observed. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the integrity of the serviceentrance conductors insulation, drip loop, and vertical clearances from grade and roofs; B. any unused circuit-breaker panel opening that was not filled; C. the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch-circuit wiring, if readily visible; D. any tested receptacle in which power was not present, polarity was incorrect, the cover was not in place, the GFCI devices were not properly installed or did not operate properly, evidence of arcing or excessive heat, and where the receptacle was not grounded or was not secured to the wall; and E. the absence of smoke detectors. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. insert any tool, probe or device into the main panelboard, sub-panels, distribution panelboards, or electrical fixtures. B. operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. remove panelboard cabinet covers or dead fronts. D. operate or re-set over-current protection devices or overload devices. E. operate or test smoke or carbon-monoxide detectors or alarms F. inspect, operate or test any security, fire or alarms systems or components, or other warning or signaling systems. G. measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service equipment, if not visibly labeled. H. inspect ancillary wiring or remote-control devices. I. activate any electrical systems or branch circuits that are not energized. J. inspect low-voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring, or any timecontrolled devices. K. verify the service ground. L. inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including, but not limited to: generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. M. inspect spark or lightning arrestors. N. inspect or test de-icing equipment. O. conduct voltage-drop calculations. P. determine the accuracy of labeling. Q. inspect exterior lighting.
Service drop overhead wires are too low, not giving enough clearance above grade. Recommend contacting your local electric utility company or qualified electrician to see if they can correct.
According to ENMAX, overhead conductors need to have a clearance area from finished grade of at least:
Two conductors were found to be attached to a breaker rated for single conductors. This is an immediate safety concern due to the possibility of overheating. A licensed electrician is recommended to evaluate and remedy as soon as possible.
Aluminum wire appears to be installed on branch electrical circuits in the subject premises. These single strand, branch circuit aluminum wires were used widely in houses during the mid 1960s and 1970s. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, problems due to expansion can cause overheating at connections between the wire and devices (switches and outlets) or at splices, which has resulted in fires. For further information on aluminum wiring contact the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission via the Internet at http://www.cpsc.gov/ . It is recommended that the electrical system be evaluated by a licensed electrician.
Electric dryer source appears to have been improperly tapped in to for additional power requirements and does not appear to have been done by a licensed electrician. Recommend a licensed electrician evaluate and remedy.
More than 1 receptacle plates were observed to be loose and require tightening to reduce electrical shock hazard
Receptacle was loose in kitchen. Recommend licensed electrician to remedy
Bad ground observed in basement receptacle. This is a possible safety hazard as it increase the risk of electrical shock. Recommend a licensed electrical contractor evaluate and repair.
Exposed breakers noted in garage. This is a safety hazard and should be finished with proper coverings to reduce the risk of electrical shock or electrocution.
GFCI protection not present in all possible wet locations. Although it is not required that older homes be updated to current building codes, I recommend a licensed electrician upgrade by installing ground fault receptacles in all possible wet locations, specifically outdoors, in the kitchen, and in the garage to prevent possible electrical shocks.
I recommend replacing all smoke detectors upon move in, and installing detectors in all bedrooms.
|10.1||Attic Insulation, Venting & Vapour Barriers||X||X|
|10.4||Pipes in unheated areas||X|
|10.5||Ducts in unheated areas||X|
I recommend replacing the weather stripping annually at attic hatch to ensure an air tight seal which limits the amount of moist air leaking in to the attic. Excessive moist air in the attic may lead to the development of mold.
Properly designed attic spaces with upper and lower venting, have their vents in place so that a flow through effect is created and therefore, any moist air will be removed from this unconditioned space. The lower vents act as an intake, while the upper vents will act as an exhaust once air moves over the roof line as this creates lower pressure at the vent's opening and as a result, lifts the attic air out through the top vents.
However, if the vents are blocked, which typically happens when insulation is installed over the lower soffit vents when "baffles" are not used to keep an air gap, this will significantly impede the venting system from properly venting air, and in particular moist air. Over time, if conditions are favourable, mold may develop in the attic.
Recommend regular cleaning to allow bathroom fans to pull moist air to outside.
Recommend regular cleaning to avoid lint build up. If lint is allowed to build up, a fire is possible as line is highly combustible.
Air/vapour barrier continuity not inspected.
Concealed insulation and vapour barriers not inspected.
Determining the presence of asbestos and other hazerdous materials is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Determining the adequacy of insulation and/or ventilation is beyond the scope of this inspection.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. insulation in unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; B. ventilation of unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; and C. mechanical exhaust systems in the kitchen, bathrooms and laundry area. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of insulation observed; and B. the approximate average depth of insulation observed at the unfinished attic floor area or roof structure. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. the general absence of insulation or ventilation in unfinished spaces. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter the attic or any unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or, in the inspector's opinion, pose a safety hazard. B. move, touch or disturb insulation. C. move, touch or disturb vapor retarders. D. break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels or covers. E. identify the composition or R-value of insulation material. F. activate thermostatically operated fans. G. determine the types of materials used in insulation or wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers or wiring. H. determine the adequacy of ventilation.
Insulation depth was inadequate. Recommend a qualified attic insulation contractor install additional insulation.
Wood shaving insulation is rated at R2.4 per inch. Approximate R-value in this home is R-12 which is well below current standards of R-49.
There was no vapour barrier observed in the attic, underneath the insulation. Vapour barriers provide a means of retarding moist air from migrating in to the unconditioned attic space. Recommend an attic installation expert to evaluate and provide recommendation.
Soffit vents need to be unobstructed in order to complete the attic ventilation system. In a passive venting system such as this home, both upper and lower venting are needed for proper air flow to remove any moist air in the attic. Soffit vents are the lower vents in this situation, and are blocked by insulation. Over time, mold may develop in the right conditions, if moist air is impeded from ventilating.
Recommend a qualified professional install insulation baffles.
Frost was observed in the attic on the roof decking.
This could be due to excessive moisture seeping into the attic and/or an indication of poor attic ventilation as noted by the blocked soffit vents.
Recommend sealing attic hatch with weather stripping and unblocking soffit vents.
Over time moisture can lead to the development of mold.
Recommend replacing attic hatch as it has a hole in it which will allow moist air up to attic space. Over time this may lead to mold growth.
Wood shaving insulation was observed as the majority of the attic insulation. While it does function as an insulating material, I recommend the buyer act with due diligence to ensure that this type of insulation is insurable as it could pose a heightened threat of a fire hazard. Some wood shavings/chips were treated with a fire retardant, however I am unable to accurately determine if the shavings in this home have been treated.
Recommend regular cleaning to avoid lint build up. If lint is allowed to build up, a fire is possible as line is highly combustible.
Basement bathroom can was missing cover on day of inspection.
Kitchen in basement suite has no fan above range. Recommend checking with local codes for possible updates.
Kitchen fans remove localized moist air and odours from living space
|11.6||Steps, Stairways & Railings||X|
|11.7||Countertops & Cabinets||X||X|
Cosmetic finished not commented on.
Chimney efficiency is not commented on or judged.
Condition of walls behind wall paper, paneling and furnishing cannot be judged.
Determining odours or stains is not part of this inspection.
Condition of flooring hidden by furniture, carpet or other covering is not inspected.
Determining the rating of fire walls is beyond the scope of this inspection.
The inspection does not address compliance of apartments, bedrooms and kitchens in the basement. Consult your local jurisdiction for regulatory requirements.
Some windows were frozen and could not be opened in order to be tested for operation.
Recommend confirmation of operation as means of egress for basement occupants.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. a representative number of doors and windows by opening and closing them; B. floors, walls and ceilings; C. stairs, steps, landings, stairways and ramps; D. railings, guards and handrails; and E. garage vehicle doors and the operation of garage vehicle door openers, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. a garage vehicle door as manually-operated or installed with a garage door opener. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails for steps, stairways, guards and railings; B. photo-electric safety sensors that did not operate properly; and C. any window that was obviously fogged or displayed other evidence of broken seals. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. inspect floor coverings or carpeting. C. inspect central vacuum systems. D. inspect for safety glazing. E. inspect security systems or components. F. evaluate the fastening of islands, countertops, cabinets, sink tops or fixtures. G. move furniture, stored items, or any coverings, such as carpets or rugs, in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. H. move suspended-ceiling tiles. I. inspect or move any household appliances. J. inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage, except as otherwise noted. K. verify or certify the proper operation of any pressure-activated auto-reverse or related safety feature of a garage door. L. operate or evaluate any security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including their compliance with local, state or federal standards. M. operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations or devices. N. operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles, tilt guards/latches, or signal lights. O. inspect microwave ovens or test leakage from microwave ovens. P. operate or examine any sauna, steamgenerating equipment, kiln, toaster, ice maker, coffee maker, can opener, bread warmer, blender, instant hot-water dispenser, or other small, ancillary appliances or devices. Q. inspect elevators. R. inspect remote controls. S. inspect appliances. T. inspect items not permanently installed. U. discover firewall compromises. V. inspect pools, spas or fountains. W. determine the adequacy of whirlpool or spa jets, water force, or bubble effects. X. determine the structural integrity or leakage of pools or spas.
Door sticks and is tough to open. Recommend sanding down offending sides.
Here is a helpful DIY article on how to fix a sticking door.
All doors were tested for functionality and fit.
Basement windows, specifically window at bottom of stairs does not appear to be completely finished. Although this is more of a cosmetic issue, I recommend that a qualified window installer evaluate and remedy so as to ensure proper insulating properties and means of egress.
There is a stain on ceiling/wall that requires repair and paint. Source of staining should be determined.
One or more cabinet doors were missing.
Cabinets are separating from wall. Recommend a qualified cabinet contractor re-fasten cabinets securely.
Screws to attach upper cabinets should be a "washer head cabinet screw". This appears to be a decking screw which does not have the same shear strength as proper cabinet screws. Recommend replacing with appropriate fasteners.