I prefer to have my client with me during my inspection so that we can discuss concerns, and I can answer all questions. 

WHAT REALLY MATTERS IN A HOME INSPECTION

Congratulations on buying your new home!

We understand the process can be stressful. A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind, but often has the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information in a short time. This often includes a written report, checklist, photographs, recommendations for maintenance and repairs, along with what the inspector himself says during the inspection. All this combined with the seller's disclosure and what you notice yourself makes the experience even more overwhelming.

What should you do? Relax. Most of your inspection will be maintenance recommendations, life expectancies and minor imperfections. These are nice to know about. However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

1. Major defects (e.g. significant structural failure).

2. Things that may lead to major defects, (e.g. a small water leak coming from a piece of roof flashing).

3. Things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home (e.g. structural damaged caused by termite infestation).

4. Safety hazards.

No home is perfect. Keep things in perspective. Do not kill your deal over things that do not matter. We are here to help any way we can. If you have questions, please call us. We also want to encourage you to review this report with your agent, and trust their professional opinions as well. We are all here to work together, and help you get moved into your new home!

Below you will find more detailed information on how to read and understand the report.  

Thank you for letting us help you, and congratulations on your new home!

Overview/How To Read The Report
Thank you for choosing Intermountain Inspections, LLC for your home inspection! The inspection performed to provide data for this report was visual in nature only, and non-invasive. The purpose of this report is to reflect as accurately as possible the visible condition of the home at the time of the inspection. This inspection is not a guarantee or warranty of any kind, but is an inspection for system and major accessible component defects and safety hazards. The Inspection is not pass/fail. Therefore, a property does not "Pass" or "Fail" a general home inspection. Please contact me with any questions about either the report or the property.

The goal of this inspection report is not to make a purchase recommendation, but to provide you with useful, accurate information that will be helpful in making an informed purchase decision. Please read your entire inspection report carefully. Although the report has a summary that lists the most important considerations, the body of the report also contains important information. There is important information about home maintenance, materials used in the construction of this home, and appliance use and maintenance that should be read to gain an understanding of how to care for your home.

The summary is meant to organize the defects or important repairs needed in the home. Most anything can be repaired in a home, although some repairs can be very expensive to complete. Repairs, evaluations and corrections for your protection and that of others, all repairs, corrections, or specialist evaluations should be performed by qualified contractors or licensed professionals. Safety hazards or poorly performed work can continue to be a problem, or even be made worse when unqualified workmen complete the work.

We are here to help! If you have questions about either the contents of this report, or about the home, please do not hesitate to contact us for help, regardless of how much time has passed since your home inspection. We will be happy to answer your questions to the best of our ability.

I = Inspected. This means the system or component was inspected and found to be functioning properly, or in acceptable condition at the time of the inspection. No further comment is necessary but whenever possible additional information about materials used in the construction and how to care for or maintain the home will be provided.

NI = Not Inspected. This indicates that at least part of a system or component could not be inspected or inspected thoroughly.

NP = Not Present. This indicates that a system or component was not present at the time of inspection. If the system or component should have been present, a comment will follow.

R = Recommendation. This indicates that an action is recommended.

For Agents Viewing the summary, it may be a more efficient use of your time to use the PDF button on the right side that will allow you to view or print the summary only. On the top edge is the "Agent Tools" button that opens a window you can easily copy/paste from. Thank you for all the hard work that you put into this transaction! We appreciate you!

An inspector is considered to be a "Generalist" in that the job is to identify and report potential issues rather than diagnose the specific cause or repair items. For this reason, you will find that it is often recommended to seek further evaluation by a qualified professional such as an electrictrician, plumber, or roofing contractor.

The report includes informational data on various components of the home, limitations that affected the ability to inspect certain items or areas, and recommendations for items that require immediate or future attention. Observations and recommendations are organized into three categories by level of severity:

1) Maintenance/Monitor Minor Issues - Primarily comprised of small cosmetic items and simple handyman or do-it-yourself maintenance items. These observations are more informational in nature and represent more of a future to-do list rather than something you might use as a negotiation or Seller-repair item. A Summary Report can be created should you choose to view a report without these minor items or informational data.

2) Moderate Recommendations - Most items typically fall into this category. These observations may require a qualified contractor to evaluate further and repair or replace but the cost is somewhat reasonable.

3) Significant and/or Safety Concerns - This category is composed of immediate safety concerns or items that could represent a significant expense to repair/replace.

This is meant to be an honest and impartial third-party assessment. I am always more than happy to discuss anything in further detail. We are here to help! If you have questions about either the contents of this report, or about the home, please do not hesitate to contact us for help, regardless of how much time has passed since your home inspection. We will be happy to answer your questions to the best of our ability.

Occasional typographical errors
Occasional typographical errors will occur. I apologize in advance for these typos and spell check errors. If any of these typos make the report
unclear or confusing please contact me immediately for clarification and/or correction.

Photographs
PHOTOGRAPHS: Several photos are included in your inspection report. These photos are for informational purposes only and do not attempt to show every instance or occurrence of a defect.

I have provided you a home maintenance book.  It includes information on how your home works, how to maintain it, and how to save energy.  Please write my contact information within the book's inside cover, so that you can always contact me. 

We're neighbors! So, feel free to reach out whenever you have a house question or issue.  

Even the most vigilant homeowner can, from time to time, miss small problems or forget about performing some routine home repairs and seasonal maintenance. That's why an Annual Home Maintenance Inspection will help you keep your home in good condition and prevent it from suffering serious, long-term and expensive damage from minor issues that should be addressed now. 

The most important thing to understand as a new homeowner is that your house requires care and regular maintenance. As time goes on, parts of your house will wear out, break down, deteriorate, leak, or simply stop working. But none of these issues means that you will have a costly disaster on your hands if you're on top of home maintenance, and that includes hiring an expert once a year. 

Just as you regularly maintain your vehicle, consider getting an Annual Home Maintenance Inspection as part of the cost of upkeep for your most valuable investment your home. 

Your InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector can show you what you should look for so that you can be an informed homeowner. Protect your family's health and safety, and enjoy your home for years to come by having an Annual Home Maintenance Inspection performed every year. 

Schedule next year's maintenance inspection with your home inspector today!

Every house should be inspected every year as part of a homeowner's routine home maintenance plan. Catch problems before they become major defects.

If your home inspector misses anything, InterNACHI will buy your home back.  

And now for the fine print:

• It's valid for home inspections performed for home buyers or sellers by participating InterNACHI members.
• The home must be listed for sale with a licensed real estate agent.
• The Guarantee excludes homes with material defects not present at the time of the inspection, or not required to be inspected, per InterNACHI's Residential Standards of Practice.
• The Guarantee will be honored for 90 days after closing.
• We'll pay you whatever price you paid for the home.

For more information, please visit www.nachi.org/buy.

Your job as the homeowner is to monitor the roof covering because any roof can leak. To monitor a roof that is inaccessible or that cannot be walked on safely, use binoculars. Look for deteriorating or loosening of flashing, signs of damage to the roof covering and debris that can clog valleys and gutters.

Roofs are designed to be water-resistant. Roofs are not designed to be waterproof. Eventually, the roof system will leak. No one can predict when, where or how a roof will leak. 

Every roof should be inspected every year as part of a homeowner's routine home maintenance plan. Catch problems before they become major defects.

I observed the roof-covering material and attempted to identify its type.  

This inspection is not a guarantee that a roof leak in the future will not happen. Roofs leak.  Even a roof that appears to be in good, functional condition will leak under certain circumstances. We will not take responsibility for a roof leak that happens in the future.  This is not a warranty or guarantee of the roof system.

We attempted to inspect the roof from various locations and methods, including from the ground and a ladder. 

The inspection was not an exhaustive inspection of every installation detail of the roof system according to the manufacturer's specifications or construction codes.  It is virtually impossible to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific water tests, which are beyond the scope of our inspection.  We recommend that you ask the sellers to disclose information about the roof, and that you include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy.  

I looked for flashing where the roof covering meets a wall or siding material.  There should be step and counter flashing installed in these locations.  This is not an exhaustive inspection of all flashing areas.

I looked for flashing installed at the eaves (near the gutter edge) and at the gables (the diagonal edge of the roof).  There should be metal drip flashing material installed in these locations.  The flashing helps the surface water on the roof to discharge into the gutter.  Flashing also helps to prevent water intrusion under the roof-covering. 

Your job is to monitor the flashing around the plumbing vent pipes that pass through the roof surface.  Sometimes they deteriorate and cause a roof leak.  

Be sure that the plumbing vent pipes do not get covered, either by debris, a toy, or snow.

I looked at DWV (drain, waste and vent) pipes that pass through the roof covering.  There should be watertight flashing (often black rubber material) installed around the vent pipes.  These plumbing vent pipes should extend far enough above the roof surface.    

Skylights are notoriously problematic and a common point of leaks.  It is important to keep the area around the skylight free of debris and to monitor it for evidence of water leaks during heavy rains and/or winter snow melts.

From outside, watch the glazing for cracks or breaks, loosening of the flashing, and rusting or decaying frames.  Skylights should be checked from the interior, too.  Don't be surprised if your skylight develops a leak. 

Your job is to monitor the gutters and be sure that they function during and after a rainstorm. Look for loose parts, sagging gutter ends, and water leaks. The rain water should be diverted far away from the house foundation. 

The exterior of your home is slowly deteriorating and aging. The sun, wind, rain and temperatures are constantly affecting it. Your job is to monitor the buildings exterior for its condition and weathertightness. 

Check the condition of all exterior materials and look for developing patterns of damage or deterioration. 

During a heavy rainstorm (without lightning), grab an umbrella and go outside. Walk around your house and look around at the roof and property. A rainstorm is the perfect time to see how the roof, downspouts and grading are performing. Observe the drainage patterns of your entire property, as well as the property of your neighbor. The ground around your house should slope away from all sides. Downspouts, surface gutters and drains should be directing water away from the foundation. 

I inspected the eaves, soffits and fascia.  I was not able to inspect every detail, since a home inspection is limited in its scope. 

The exterior of your home is slowly deteriorating and aging.  The sun, wind, rain and temperatures are constantly affecting it.  Your job is to monitor the house's exterior for its condition and weathertightness. 

Check the condition of all exterior wall-covering materials and look for developing patterns of damage or deterioration. 

I inspected the vegetation, surface drainage, retaining walls and grading of the property, where they may adversely affect the structure due to moisture intrusion.

I inspected ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacles and circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs using a GFCI tester, where possible.

I inspected the walkways and driveways that were adjacent to the house.  The walkways, driveways, and parking areas that were far away from the house foundation were not inspected. 

I inspected the stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps that were within the scope of my home inspection. 

All treads should be level and secure. Riser heights and tread depths should be as uniform as possible. As a guide, stairs must have a maximum riser of 7-3/4 inches and a minimum tread of 10 inches. 

I inspected the porches, patios, decks, balconies and carports at the house that were within the scope of the home inspection. 

I inspected the railings, guards and handrails that were within the scope of the home inspection. 

Exterior Water Pressure was 60psi at time of inspection. This is considered adequate and in good condition. Water pressure should be between 40-45 generally on a residential unit and anything over 60 a regulator is recommended. 

During the home inspection, I inspected for insulation in unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas.  And I inspected mechanical exhaust systems in the kitchen, bathrooms and laundry area.

I report as in need of correction the general absence of ventilation in unfinished spaces.

One of the most common problems in a house with a crawlspace is water intrusion, condensation, and excessively high humidity levels. You should monitor the walls and floors for signs of water penetration, such as dampness, water stains, efflorescence, and rust on exposed metal parts. Water may come through the walls or cracks in the floor, or from backed-up floor drains, leaky plumbing lines, or a clogged air-conditioner condensate line. 

Structural components were inspected according to the Home Inspection Standards of Practice, including readily observed floor joists. 

Determining how much insulation should be installed in a house depends upon where a home is located.   proper amount of insulation should be installed at a particular area of a house is dependent upon which climate zone the house is located. 

This house is located in a climate zone that requires an R-value of 

Most HVAC (heating, ventilating and air-conditioning) systems in houses are relatively simple in design and operation. They consist of four components: controls, fuel supply, heating or cooling unit, and distribution system. The adequacy of heating and cooling is often quite subjective and depends upon occupant perceptions that are affected by the distribution of air, the location of return-air vents, air velocity, the sound of the system in operation, and similar characteristics. Based on the serial number this unit appears to have been manufactured in February 1999 and is approximately 20 years old (www.building-center.org). Regular maintenance and monitoring of its condition is recommended. Budgeting for repairs and future replacement is recommended.

It's your job to get the HVAC system inspected and serviced every year. And if you're system as an air filter, be sure to keep that filter cleaned. 

Most air-conditioning systems in houses are relatively simple in design and operation. The adequacy of the cooling is often quite subjective and depends upon occupant perceptions that are affected by the distribution of air, the location of return-air vents, air velocity, the sound of the system in operation, and similar characteristics. 

It's your job to get the air conditioning system inspected and serviced every year. And if you're system as an air filter, be sure to keep that filter cleaned. 

I observed a discharge pipe apparently connected to the condensate pump installed at the cooling system. 

It's your job to know where the main water and fuel shutoff valves are located. And be sure to keep an eye out for any water and plumbing leaks. 

The water supply to the house appeared to be from a private water supply source based upon the observed indications at the time of the inspection.  To confirm and be certain, I recommend asking the homeowner for details. 

I inspected for the main source of the distributed hot water to the plumbing fixtures (sinks, tubs, showers).  I recommend asking the homeowner for details about the hot water equipment and past performance. 

Based on the serial number this unit appears to have been manufactured in April 1999 and is approximately 20 years old (www.building-center.org). Regular maintenance and monitoring of its condition is recommended. Budgeting for repairs and future replacement is recommended.

I inspected the hot water source and equipment according to the Home Inspection Standards of Practice. 

I attempted to inspect the drain, waste, and vent pipes.  Not all of the pipes and components were accessible and observed.  Inspection restriction.  Ask the homeowner about water and sewer leaks or blockages in the past.  

I attempted to inspect the water supply and distribution pipes (plumbing pipes). Not all of the pipes and components were accessible and observed. Inspection restriction. Ask the homeowner about water supply, problems with water supply, and water leaks in the past.  

It's your job to know where the main electrical panel is located, including the main service disconnect that turns everything off. 

Be sure to test your GFCIs, AFCIs, and smoke detectors regularly. You can replace light bulbs, but more than that, you ought to hire an electrician. Electrical work is hazardous and mistakes can be fatal. Hire a professional whenever there's an electrical problem in your house. 

I observed indications of the main service disconnect's amperage rating. It was labeled. 

I inspected the electrical panelboards and over-current protection devices (circuit breakers and fuses). 

I inspected the electrical subpanel and over-current protection devices (circuit breakers and fuses). 

I inspected the electrical service grounding and bonding.

I inspected receptacles observed that were deemed to be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)-protected using the AFCI test button, where possible. None Present.

The 1999 National Electric Code required AFCI protection for branch circuits containing bedroom receptacle outlets, with the requirement taking effect on January 1st of 2002.  Since then, AFCI requirements have been expanded many times, to the point where AFCI protection is now needed for all 120-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms.

I inspected ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacles and circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs using a GFCI tester, where possible.

During the home inspection, I inspected for ventilation in unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas. And I inspected for mechanical exhaust systems. 

I report as in need of correction the general absence of ventilation in unfinished spaces.

I flushed all of the toilets. 

I ran water at all bathroom sinks, bathtubs, and showers. I inspected for deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously. 

I inspected the exhaust fans of the bathroom(s). All mechanical exhaust fans should terminate outside. Confirming that the fan exhausts outside is beyond the scope of a home inspection. 

I inspected the GFCI-protection at the receptacle near the bathroom sink by pushing the test button at the GFCI device or using a GFCI testing instrument. 

All receptacles in the bathroom must be GFCI protected. 

I inspected a representative number of doors according to the Home Inspection Standards of Practice by opening and closing them. I did not operate door locks and door stops, which is beyond the scope of a home inspection. 

I inspected a representative number of windows according to the Home Inspection Standards of Practice by opening and closing them. I did not operate window locks and operation features, which is beyond the scope of a home inspection. 

I inspected a representative number of switches, lighting fixtures and receptacles. 

I inspected the readily visible surfaces of floors, walls and ceilings. I looked for material defects according to the Home Inspection Standards of Practice. 

I inspected the stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps that were within the scope of my home inspection. 

All treads should be level and secure. Riser heights and tread depths should be as uniform as possible. As a guide, stairs must have a maximum riser of 7-3/4 inches and a minimum tread of 10 inches. 

I inspected a representative number railings, guards and handrails that were within the scope of the home inspection. 

I inspected for the presence of smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors. 

There should be a smoke detector in every sleeping room, outside of every sleeping room, and one every level of a house. 

I observed ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection in the kitchen. 

I inspected the dishwasher by turning it on and letting it run a short cycle. 

I turned on the kitchen's stove and oven. 

I checked to see if the refrigerator was on. It was. That's all I inspected in relation to a refrigerator. Refrigerators are beyond the scope of a home inspection. 

I inspected the readily visible surfaces of floors, walls and ceilings. I looked for material defects according to the Home Inspection Standards of Practice.