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1234 Main St.
Beaverton, OR 97006
12/07/2019 9:00AM

Sample agent

Agent Name

Agency Name

                            (Agreement, Invoice, Attachments)

(Directly to the invoice, click view as pdf to print)

(PDF type report, easily saved)

The report is broken up into sections that can be scrolled to or jumped to by clicking on the desired section label, located in the left side menu. Each section may have up to 4 tabs located just under the title.

The Overview tab is a quick view of the items covered.

The Information tab will display additional details and photos of each category. It is recommend to view this tab as it likely holds detailed information.

The Limitations tab will only display if a limitation is present and will cover the reason the inspection was limited.

The Standards tab will review the standards of practice the inspector follows under his licensing and association. 

Deficiencies are organized into three categories by level of severity:

1) Minor/Maintenance IssuesPrimarily comprised of small cosmetic items or simple Handyman and do-it-yourself maintenance items.  These observations are more informational in nature and represent more of a future to-do list rather than something you might use as a negotiation or Seller-repair item. A licensed contractor may still need to be consulted for some of these items.

2) Moderate RecommendationsMost items typically fall into this category.  These observations may require a qualified contractor to evaluate further and repair or replace but the safety risk or cost may be less severe.

3) Significant and/or Safety Concerns - This category is composed of immediate safety concerns or items that could represent a significant expense to repair/replace.  

Each item classified may have a recommendation of a specific type of contractor to consult with. This is only an opinion and additional evaluations from other contracting trades may be necessary for a complete assessment.
The recommendation of utilizing a handyman should only be considered if the handyman is properly licensed and qualified. For DIY recommendations and completing the work yourself as the homeowner, it is recommended a licensed professional be hired if you do not possess the skills to safely and properly execute the repair or maintenance.

1 - Inspection Details

In Attendance
Client, Client's Agent
Home Orientation
North Facing
Type of Building
Single Family Home, Detached
Weather Conditions
Temperature (approximate)
55 Fahrenheit (F)

A general home inspection is a non-invasive, visual examination of the accessible areas of a residential property, performed for a fee, which is designed to identify defects within specific systems and components defined by these Standards that are both observed and deemed material by the inspector.  The scope of work may be modified by the Client and Inspector prior to the inspection process.

  1. The general home inspection is based on the observations made on the date of the inspection, and not a prediction of future conditions.
  2. The general home inspection will not reveal every issue that exists or ever could exist, but only those material defects observed on the date of the inspection.

A material defect is a specific issue with a system or component of a residential property that may have a significant, adverse impact on the value of the property, or that poses an unreasonable risk to people.  The fact that a system or component is near, at, or beyond the end of its normal, useful life is not, in itself, a material defect.

A general home inspection report shall identify, in written format, defects within specific systems and components defined by these Standards that are both observed and deemed material by the inspector.  Inspection reports may include additional comments and recommendations.

2 - Roof

2.1 Coverings X X
2.2 Roof Drainage Systems X
2.3 Flashings X
2.4 Skylights, Chimneys & Other Roof Penetrations X
Inspection Method
Walking on Roof
Roof Type/Style
Gable and Valley
Coverings: Material
Asphalt, 30 Yr. Architectural
Coverings: Approximate Age
17 - 18 Year(s)

Asphalt Shingles; 

          3-tab - 15 to 22 years

          Architectural - 18 to 25 years

          Presidential - 25 to 40 years

Cedar Shake - 25 - 40 years

Metal - 30 to 45 years

Concrete Tile - 35 to 50 years

Rolled Asphalt Roofing - 8 to 15 years

TPO (typically a white membrane) - 14 to 24 years

EPDM (typically a black rubber) - 16 to 26 years

Built-Up or Modified Bitumen - 12 to 18 years

Within the last 20% of the roofs life the chance of a leak may increase tenfold. Recommend inspecting at least once a year at this point.

Average lifespan estimates are based on typical conditions. Many factors contribute to a longer or shorter life of the roof.

List of conditions that may affect the roofs longevity:

Color - A dark roof absorbs more heat, which can shorten the lifespan.

Angle "Pitch" - Steeper pitch roofs tend to last longer.

Orientation of roof surface - A roof slope facing south will get more sunlight and may decrease some roofings expected life span. A roof facing north has an increased chance of moss which can deteriorate asphalt or concrete roofing. 

Multiple-layer roof - A roof installed over an existing roof will have a shorter life.

Installation - Improper installation can shorten a roofs life and increase the chance of premature leaks.

Attic ventilation - An unventilated or poorly ventilated attic reduces roof lifespan.

Trees near roof - Tree branches rubbing on a roof or the acidity from the accumulation of leaf debris on a roof shortens its life.

Harsh climate - Severe weather, both harsh winters and hot summers, along with big temperature swings within a 24-hour period, also shorten lifespan because of the expansion and contraction of roof materials.

Coverings: Roofing Layers
Roof Drainage Systems: Gutter Material
Seemless, Metal
Roof Drainage Systems: Downspout Material
Roof Drainage Systems: Gutter screen
Flashings: Drip Flashing

Drip flashing assists the moisture from the roof line into the gutter. The flashing is generally installed under the roofing and underlayment and lays over the back side of the gutter.

Flashings: Edge Flashing

Edge flashing is installed to keep moisture from whickin back under the edge of the roof line between the roofing material and the roof sheathing. 

Flashings: Headwall Flashing

Headwall flashing is installed at the top of a sloped roof plane where it meets a vertical surface (wall, chimney). This differs from step flashing as the flashing is solid and runs across the roof line laying over the top roofing shingles. These typically are fastened down to the top shingle with grommeted nails or are sealed with an asphalt sealant. It is standard maintenance to check the grommet and or sealant for failure as extensive sunlight will decay the sealant. Occasionally the flashing will begin to lift as the fasteners weakin, they will need to be resecured as part of ongoing maintenance.

Flashings: Pipe Flashing

Pipe flashing, sometimes referred to as a roof boot, is manufactured to seal tightly around small ventilation pipes, plumbing, and other vents and equipment that protrude from the roof of a home. Over time this the rubber boot will break down from sunlight and eventually crack allowing moisture to penetrate the roof surface. (an easy trick is to installed a second rubber boot over the first to act as a sacrificial piece from the sun.) Recommend monitoring these closely and replace as needed. A licensed roofing contractor can perform these repairs.

Flashings: Step Flashing

The step flashing application method is used where a vertical surface (wall, chimney) meets a sloping roof plane. Most commonly 6" X 6" galvanized metal bent at a 90 degree angle is installed beneath siding and over the top of the upper half of the shingle. Each piece overlaps the one beneath it the entire length of the sloping roof (step by step). 

Flashings: Valley Metal

Valley metal is a shaped flashing that is installed where two perpendicular roofing planes meet each other. As each plane directs the moisture towards the other, the valley is there to channel the moisture down and towards the gutter. 

I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or the eaves: A. the roof-covering materials; B. the gutters; C. the downspouts; D. the vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, and other roof penetrations; and E. the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of roof-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of active roof leaks. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. walk on any roof surface. B. predict the service life expectancy. C. inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. move insulation. F. inspect antennae, satellite dishes, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments. G. walk on any roof areas that appear, in the inspectors opinion, to be unsafe. H. walk on any roof areas if doing so might, in the inspector's opinion, cause damage. I. perform a water test. J. warrant or certify the roof. K. confirm proper fastening or installation of any roof-covering material.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
2.1.1 - Coverings

Near End of Life

The roof is near the end of its typical service life. As a roofing product nears this point, the chances of a roof leak greatly increase. Recommend consulting with a licensed roofing contractor to further evaluate and monitor or repair/replace as needed.

Roof Roofing Professional
2.1.2 - Coverings


Recommend cleaning and removing any moss from the roof, after which a moss treatment plan can be established to limit future growth. Avoid power washing the moss off because that can drive moisture under the shingles, damaging the underlying roof components. If the roof is to high or steep, recommend contacting a licensed roofing contractor or moss removal specialist.

Moss growth is usually greatest on north-facing roofs, roof areas shaded by trees and other places that are not exposed to enough sun to dry out.

Once established, it acts like a sponge, soaking up and storing rainwater. Some of that water then wicks up under the shingles through capillary action and soaks into and through the roof underlayment, which is typically 15- or 30-pound felt. Eventually, it saturates the roof sheathing below.

Moss can shorten the life span of a shingled roof and result in costly repairs both structural and cosmetic that would not be necessary if the roof were maintained properly and kept clear of moss.

Additional Information

Tools Handyman/DIY
2.1.3 - Coverings

Fasteners - Seal

During the inspection one or more nails/fasteners was observed to be lacking sealant or a rubber gasket to prevent a leak. Recommend a qualified roofing contractor evaluate and repair.

Roof Roofing Professional
2.1.4 - Coverings

Debris - Construction

A piece of flashing was found lodged into the valley. This flashing was not able to be identified from anything necessary in the area and no leaks were noted in the attic. Recommend removing this and monitoring the roof closely as it ages. 

Contractor Qualified Professional

3 - Exterior

3.1 Siding X X
3.2 Trim & Flashing X
3.3 Exterior Doors X
3.4 Windows X
3.5 Eaves, Soffits & Fascia X X
3.6 Driveways, Walkways, & Front Porches X
3.7 Decks, Balconies, & Patios X
3.8 Vegetation, Grading, Drainage & Retaining Walls X X
3.9 Hose Bib X
3.10 Fence X
Inspection Method
Amount of Caulking Required

Depending on the siding type and installation method, some types of siding will not need caulking where two planks or boards come together, this area is called a butt joint. Most siding will required caulking around doors, windows, trim, and at the corners (both inside and sometimes the outside corners). Do not caulk over flashing. 

Areas of Priority to Paint
Painting Recommendation Timeline

Paint in general can last between 7-15 years. It widely depends on the amount of sunlight and weather directly affecting the area but the type of siding material, quality of paint, and quality of application can also affect the life expectancy. Areas in contant shade and protection from rain typically will last much longer than an exposed south face. 

Siding: Siding Material
Siding: Siding Style
Trim & Flashing: Trim Material
Exterior Doors: Exterior Entry Door
Sliding Glass, Metal Clad
Driveways, Walkways, & Front Porches: Driveway Material
Driveways, Walkways, & Front Porches: Porch Material
Driveways, Walkways, & Front Porches: Walkway Material
Decks, Balconies, & Patios: Appurtenance
Decks, Balconies, & Patios: Patio
Hose Bib: Functioning Bib Locations
Front, Back
Hose Bib: Non-Functioning Bib Locations
None - all functioning

Location of hose bib(s) tested and no water would discharge. The system is likely winterized, per the standards of practice we do not open or close water supply valves due to a potential leak that could develop.

Fence: Condition
Some Areas Acceptable, Some Areas are Deteriorated
Fence: Materials

I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the exterior wall-covering materials, flashing and trim; B. all exterior doors; C. adjacent walkways and driveways; D. stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps; E. porches, patios, decks, balconies and carports; F. railings, guards and handrails; G. the eaves, soffits and fascia; H. a representative number of windows; and I. vegetation, surface drainage, retaining walls and grading of the property, where they may adversely affect the structure due to moisture intrusion. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of exterior wall-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. inspect items that are not visible or readily accessible from the ground, including window and door flashing. C. inspect or identify geological, geotechnical, hydrological or soil conditions. D. inspect recreational facilities or playground equipment. E. inspect seawalls, breakwalls or docks. F. inspect erosion-control or earth-stabilization measures. G. inspect for safety-type glass. H. inspect underground utilities. I. inspect underground items. J. inspect wells or springs. K. inspect solar, wind or geothermal systems. L. inspect swimming pools or spas. M. inspect wastewater treatment systems, septic systems or cesspools. N. inspect irrigation or sprinkler systems. O. inspect drainfields or dry wells. P. determine the integrity of multiple-pane window glazing or thermal window seals.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
3.1.1 - Siding

Vinyl Siding - Dirty

Moss and dirty are heavy on several locations of the vinyl siding. Recommend cleaning to help Maximize life span.

Contractor Qualified Professional
3.5.1 - Eaves, Soffits & Fascia

Paint/Finish Failing

Paint is peeling from the south fascia. 

Paint roller Painting Contractor
3.8.1 - Vegetation, Grading, Drainage & Retaining Walls

Tree Overhang

Trees observed overhanging the roof. This can cause damage to the roof and prevent proper drainage. Recommend a qualified tree service trim to allow for proper drainage. 

Yard scissors Landscaping Contractor

4 - Basement, Foundation, Crawlspace & Structure

4.1 Foundation X X
4.2 Basements & Crawlspaces X X
4.3 Floor Structure X X
4.4 Wall Structure X
4.5 Roofing/Attic Structure X
Inspection Method
Foundation: Type
Perimeter, Post and Pier
Foundation: Material
Basements & Crawlspaces: Configuation
Basements & Crawlspaces: Approx. % of Crawl Space Floor Covered
100 %
Basements & Crawlspaces: Approx. % of Crawl Space/Basement Area Inspected
100 %

The Crawl Space/Basement inspection may have been limited by one or more of the follow: 

(1) The opening size or interior accessibility has prevented the crawl space from being inspect. The opening is required to be at least 18" x 24" and maintain a minimum interior height of 18" under joists or beams. We make every effort to safely inspect a crawl space even if the opening or heights are less than code. 

(2) Standing water is present and is limiting access. Based on the standards of practice and for the safety of the inspector, home inspectors do not crawl through water, we do not know where the water may be coming from or what may be in the water. In some cases the standing water can be from a broken sewage pipe or have dead pests inside, all which can cause health concern.

(3) The area contained debris, personal belonging, and or limited by locked doors.

Every attempt to safely inspect the Crawl Space/Basement will be made, otherwise it will be inspected from the access hatch/door.

Basements & Crawlspaces: Approximate Height
Typical - 18"-30"
Basements & Crawlspaces: Ease of Navigation
Moderately Navigable
Floor Structure: Basement/Crawlspace Floor
Dirt, Visqueen
Floor Structure: Structure Material
Wood Beams
Floor Structure: Sub-floor Material
Wall Structure: Framing
Roofing/Attic Structure: Roof and Ceiling Framing
Roofing/Attic Structure: Approx. % of Attic Area Inspected
100 %

The attic inspection may have been limited by one or more of the follow: 

(1) Entrance is to small, per the standards of practice a home inspector is not required enter an attic space if the opening is less than 20" by 30" or is deemed unsafe and could result in damage of the property. 

(2) The height between the roof and rafters/trusses was to shallow to allow for complete mobility throughout the attic. This may be the cause of extra insulation, ducting, vaulted ceilings, or specific trusses, all in combination with a low pitch roof line.

Every attempt to safely inspect the attic will be made, otherwise it will be inspected from the attic entrance.

I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the foundation; B. the basement; C. the crawlspace; and D. structural components. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of foundation; and B. the location of the access to the under-floor space. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of wood in contact with or near soil; B. observed indications of active water penetration; C. observed indications of possible foundation movement, such as sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames, and unlevel floors; and D. any observed cutting, notching and boring of framing members that may, in the inspector's opinion, present a structural or safety concern. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter any crawlspace that is not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to him/herself. B. move stored items or debris. C. operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. identify the size, spacing, span or location or determine the adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists, joist spans or support systems. E. provide any engineering or architectural service. F. report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
4.1.1 - Foundation

Settling Cracks
East Side

Settling cracks were noted at the foundation. This is common as concrete ages and shrinkage surface cracks are normal near breathing vents where the concrete is weakest. Recommend monitoring for more serious shifting/displacement. 

Here is an informational article on foundation cracks.

Mag glass Monitor
4.1.2 - Foundation

Foundation Cracks-
East Side, Garage

Moderate cracking was noted at the foundation in one or more locations. This is common as concrete ages and shrinkage but cracks of this size are generally influenced by additional settling. Recommend monitoring for more serious shifting/displacement. 

Here is an informational article on foundation cracks.

A foundation contractor should be consulted if the crack ever grows. 

Mag glass Monitor
4.2.1 - Basements & Crawlspaces

Silt Stains/Dirt on Plastic/Floor

Silt, water stains, and/or mud/dirt on the floor of a basement or the plastic of a crawl space generally indicate there was moisture there at one time. Recommend monitoring for future moisture intrusion. 

Mag glass Monitor
4.2.2 - Basements & Crawlspaces

Standing Water

Standing water is present on basement / crawl space floor. Recommend a qualified contractor evaluate and locate potential source of moisture. A water mitigation system may be necessary for proper moisture management. 

Mold Environmental Contractor
4.2.3 - Basements & Crawlspaces

Vapor Barrier - Cut

The vapor barrier / visqueen was found cut during the inspection. This is generally an indication that there has been standing water at one point.  As moisture gets on top of the plastic sheeting (whether from a leaking pipe or groundwater) it has a hard time draining and has to evaporate over time. This will typically leave silt stains that can show us how much moisture there might have been. The cuts in the plastic allow this moisture to drain and keep moisture levels low. The cuts in the plastic also defeat a small part of the purpose of having the vapor barrier (keeping the vapor/moisture under the plastic and away from the home). Recommend monitoring the crawl space during winter months for excess moisture and be prepared to install a water mitigation system if necessary. In the following years if there is no moisture, it would be advised to replace the cut vapor barrier.

Mag glass Monitor
4.3.1 - Floor Structure

Subfloor - Squeaking
2nd Floor Hall, SW Bedroom

The subfloor in one or more locations was creaking and squeaking more than typically found. Recommend a licensed carpenter to further evaluate and repair as desired. 

Here are some of the many options out there to assist in eliminating a squeaky floor. 

From underneath

From above (through flooring)

Hammer Carpentry Contractor

5 - Electrical

5.1 Service Entrance Conductors, Meter, Main Disconnect X
5.2 Main Panel, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device X
5.3 Branch Wiring Circuits, Breakers & Fuses X
5.4 Outlets, Switches, Fixtures & Junction Boxes X X
5.6 Smoke Detectors X X
5.7 Carbon Monoxide Detectors X X
Service Entrance Conductors, Meter, Main Disconnect: Electrical Service Conductors
Below Ground, 220 Volts
Main Panel, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device: Panel Manufacturer
Square D

Commonly referred to as the Fuse Box, Breaker Panel, or Electric Panel, the Load Center is the heart of the electrical system in any building. It takes the large incoming electric supply from the utility company and distributes the power throughout the house as smaller protected feeds. 

Main Panel, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device: Approximate Service Size
200 AMP


The main disconnect fuses or breakers act as safety barriers in the case of an electrical problem or overload. The most common sizes in residential use are 100 amps, 150 amps and 200 amps. The amperage (amps) referred to is a measurement of electricity. The higher the number of amps, the more electricity you can use in your home.

200 Amp Panel

This size panel is well suited to most average to larger size homes, allowing the homeowner plenty of leeway to add a hot tub, additional outlets, etc. This panel may not be adequate for homes of 3,500 sq. feet or larger, especially if the home has electric appliances, water heater and there is dual air conditioning system, hot tub etc.

In homes exceeding 3,500 / 4,000 sq feet it is not uncommon to see two panels, a 200 amp panel and an additional 100 or 200 amp panel.

150 Amp Panel

This panel is rarely used when rewiring because the cost for installing the larger 200 amp panel is not very much more and it provides a lot more service. This panel commonly found in new construction is well suited to most average sized homes.

NOTE: 150 or 200 amp service is common in smaller all electric homes
(homes that have a heat pump with electric backup heat, electric furnace, baseboard or radiant ceiling heating)

100 - 125 Amp Panel

This size panel, usually equipped with fuses or circuit breakers, may function for an average home with low to normal electrical demands.
Commonly found in condominiums. 
Potentially adequate for a home up to 1500/2000 sq ft that has gas heat & water and one small air conditioner.

NOTE: This size panel may not be adequate if you want to add a hot tub and there is already central air, electric clothes dryer and water heater.

60 Amp Panel

This size service is no longer installed in new homes because homes now use a lot more electricity than they did 40 years ago. This size service is inadequate for todays "normal" load use. If you have a home with this size service it may be recommend that it be upgraded to 100 amp service to better meet your needs.

Main Panel, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device: Panel Type
Circuit Breaker
Main Panel, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device: Main Panel Location
Main Panel, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device: Panel Label

Proper labeling will help identify which breaker should be shut off to allow for maintenance and or safety. If a label system or chart is not completely filled out, it is recommended to have it evaluated and finished by a qualified electrical contractor. 

Branch Wiring Circuits, Breakers & Fuses: Wire Material and Type
Copper - non metallic sheathed, Aluminum to major appliances
Outlets, Switches, Fixtures & Junction Boxes: Outlets
GFCI & AFCI: AFCI Location
GFCI & AFCI: GFCI Protection
Bathroom, Kitchen, Exterior, Garage
Smoke Detectors: Presence
Present, Wired

Recommend testing the smoke alarm system when you move in and periodically there after. 

Carbon Monoxide Detectors: Presence
None Noted

If applicable, recommend testing the CO alarm system when you move in and periodically there after.

I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the service drop; B. the overhead service conductors and attachment point; C. the service head, gooseneck and drip loops; D. the service mast, service conduit and raceway; E. the electric meter and base; F. service-entrance conductors; G. the main service disconnect; H. panelboards and over-current protection devices (circuit breakers and fuses); I. service grounding and bonding; J. a representative number of switches, lighting fixtures and receptacles, including receptacles observed and deemed to be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)-protected using the AFCI test button, where possible; K. all ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacles and circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs using a GFCI tester, where possible; and L. smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the main service disconnect's amperage rating, if labeled; and B. the type of wiring observed. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the integrity of the serviceentrance conductors insulation, drip loop, and vertical clearances from grade and roofs; B. any unused circuit-breaker panel opening that was not filled; C. the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch-circuit wiring, if readily visible; D. any tested receptacle in which power was not present, polarity was incorrect, the cover was not in place, the GFCI devices were not properly installed or did not operate properly, evidence of arcing or excessive heat, and where the receptacle was not grounded or was not secured to the wall; and E. the absence of smoke detectors. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. insert any tool, probe or device into the main panelboard, sub-panels, distribution panelboards, or electrical fixtures. B. operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. remove panelboard cabinet covers or dead fronts. D. operate or re-set over-current protection devices or overload devices. E. operate or test smoke or carbon-monoxide detectors or alarms F. inspect, operate or test any security, fire or alarms systems or components, or other warning or signaling systems. G. measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service equipment, if not visibly labeled. H. inspect ancillary wiring or remote-control devices. I. activate any electrical systems or branch circuits that are not energized. J. inspect low-voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring, or any timecontrolled devices. K. verify the service ground. L. inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including, but not limited to: generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. M. inspect spark or lightning arrestors. N. inspect or test de-icing equipment. O. conduct voltage-drop calculations. P. determine the accuracy of labeling. Q. inspect exterior lighting.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
5.4.1 - Outlets, Switches, Fixtures & Junction Boxes

Outlet - Loose
Living Room, Master Bedroom

One or more outlets is loose. Recommend tightening the receptacle and or the plate cover. Recommend hiring a licensed electrical contractor for safety if you are not comfortable with this repair.

Electric Electrical Contractor
5.4.2 - Outlets, Switches, Fixtures & Junction Boxes

Switch - Unidentified Use
Living Room

During the inspection a use for this switch could not be verified, recommend asking the seller to clarify the purpose of this switch.

Contractor Qualified Professional
5.6.1 - Smoke Detectors

Out Dated

Some of the present smoke detectors are more than 10 years old. Nearly all smoke detectors and alarms are rated for 10 years or less. For safety it is recommend that any smoke detector or alarm older than 10 years be replaced and then tested. If the unit is wired, it must be replaced by another wired unit.

Contractor Qualified Professional
5.7.1 - Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Additional CO Monitors Required

A law went into effect requiring carbon monoxide detectors to be installed upon transfer of ownership. These CO detectors are required within 15 feet of all bedrooms and is recommended to have one on each level for additional safety. Additional Information

Tools Handyman/DIY

6 - Heating

6.1 Equipment X X
6.2 Performance and Operating Controls X
6.3 Distribution Systems X
6.4 Presence of Installed Heat Source in Each Room X
6.5 Gas/LP Firelogs & Fireplaces X X
Equipment: Brand
Equipment: Energy Source
Natural Gas
Equipment: Heat Type
Gas Furnace
Equipment: Failure Probability
Equipment: Fuel Shutoff

This valve is used to turn off the supply of gas to the furnace.

Equipment: Location

Furnaces can be located in many different locations depending on the type of house and available space. There are specific requirements when a furnace is located in each location. Depending on the garage layout a "bollard" may be required to prevent a vehicle from striking the furnace. In the attic there are specific requirements to an appropriate working area with light, outlet, and platform for the hvac tech. Any enclosed areas such as a utility closet or furnace room/closet may require specific venting to allow for proper combustion.
These are all factors that are considered in a home inspection, if there is ever any concern about the area or type of installation, a licensed HVAC contractor should be consulted prior to final purchase.

Equipment: Approximate Age
17 - 18

Typical Life Expectancy

  • Gas Furnace 15-25 years
  • Electric Furnace 15-25 years
  • Heat Pump 10-20 years
  • Boilers 20-35 years
  • Mini Split 8-15 years
  • Baseboard / Wall Heaters 12-18 years
  • Electric Radiant Heat (heated floor) 25-40 years

Many factors including preventive maintenance, consistency of use, and load demand can play a large factor in the life expectancy of a heating system. Towards the end of a units life, expect to have increased energy usage and maintenance cost.

Equipment: Filter Size

Filters need to be replaced every 2-3 months for 1" thick filters and 4-6 months for 4" thick filters.

When ready, replacing with a disposable pleated filter of a MERV 5 or higher is generally better for the health of the system. If the filtering system is electric, make sure it is evaluated each time the HVAC is serviced. 

Performance and Operating Controls: Return Temperature
72 Fahrenheit (F)
Performance and Operating Controls: Average Supply Temperature
110 Fahrenheit (F)
Performance and Operating Controls: Temperature Difference

During the inspection we will take readings of an appropriate number of supply registers and compare that to the return. This allows us to test for "live temperatures" that have been influenced by the duct work. With this considered the average temperature spread will be lower than if the readings were taken at the air handler.

These are for recommendation only and a Licensed HVAC Contractor should be consulted if desired. Air duct performance is considered during this test and any ducting considered to be deficient will be removed from the test results.

Distribution Systems: Distribution Type
Forced Air
Distribution Systems: Ductwork
Gas/LP Firelogs & Fireplaces: Fireplace / Stove Type
Gas Fireplace
Gas/LP Firelogs & Fireplaces: Venting Type
Sidewall Venting
Gas/LP Firelogs & Fireplaces: Fan

Some gas fireplaces will come with a fan, often times these are controlled with either a wall switch, remote switch, thermostat, or a combination of the wall switch and thermostat. We will attempt to operate the fan is possible.

Gas/LP Firelogs & Fireplaces: Gas Shutoff

This valve is used to turn off the supply of gas to the fireplace.

I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the heating system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the heating system; B. the energy source; and C. the heating method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any heating system that did not operate; and B. if the heating system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or evaluate the interior of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, heat exchangers, combustion air systems, fresh-air intakes, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, geothermal systems, or solar heating systems. B. inspect fuel tanks or underground or concealed fuel supply systems. C. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. light or ignite pilot flames. E. activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. override electronic thermostats. G. evaluate fuel quality. H. verify thermostat calibration, heat anticipation, or automatic setbacks, timers, programs or clocks.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
6.1.1 - Equipment

Filter - Dirty

The furnace filter is dirty and needs to be replaced every 2-3 months for 1" thick filters and 4-6 months for 4" thick filters.

Tools Handyman/DIY
6.1.2 - Equipment

Furnace - Servicing/Cleaning

Furnace should be cleaned and serviced annually. Recommend a qualified HVAC contractor clean, service and certify furnace.

Here is a resource on the importance of furnace maintenance.

Fire HVAC Professional
6.5.1 - Gas/LP Firelogs & Fireplaces


Recommend cleaning under and above the fireplace insert regularly for safety. 

Tools Handyman/DIY

7 - Attic, Insulation & Ventilation

7.1 Attic Insulation X
7.2 Wall Insulation X
7.3 Floor Insulation X
7.4 Ventilation X
7.5 Exhaust Systems X X
Attic Insulation: Insulation Type
Blown, Fiberglass
Attic Insulation: Approximate R-value
24 - 36
Attic Insulation: Approx. % of Attic Covered
100 %

Areas over the garage are not part of this consideration. 

Attic Insulation: Insulation Amount
Wall Insulation: Insulation Type
Batt, Fiberglass, Covered - not physically seen
Wall Insulation: Approximate R-value
8 - 12
Wall Insulation: Insulation Amount
Typical for age of home, Not able to verify
Floor Insulation: Insulation Type
Batt, Fiberglass
Floor Insulation: Approximate R-value
18 - 24
Floor Insulation: Insulation Amount
Ventilation: Ventilation Type
Roof Vents, Soffit Vents
Exhaust Systems: Bathroom Ventilation
Exhaust Fan
Exhaust Systems: Kitchen Ventilation
Microwave Hood, Re-circulation Type
Exhaust Systems: Laundry Room Ventilation
Cloths dryer vent to exterior, Exhaust Fan

I. The inspector shall inspect: A. insulation in unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; B. ventilation of unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; and C. mechanical exhaust systems in the kitchen, bathrooms and laundry area. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of insulation observed; and B. the approximate average depth of insulation observed at the unfinished attic floor area or roof structure. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. the general absence of insulation or ventilation in unfinished spaces. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter the attic or any unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or, in the inspector's opinion, pose a safety hazard. B. move, touch or disturb insulation. C. move, touch or disturb vapor retarders. D. break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels or covers. E. identify the composition or R-value of insulation material. F. activate thermostatically operated fans. G. determine the types of materials used in insulation or wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers or wiring. H. determine the adequacy of ventilation.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
7.5.1 - Exhaust Systems

Exhaust Fan- Dirty
2nd Floor Hall Bathroom, Master Bathroom

Over time the exhaust fan covers will begin to clog from lint and dust. This can greatly reduce the efficiency of the exhaust fan. Recommend cleaning on a regular basis to allow for efficient use. 

Helpful DIY Walk-Through

Tools Handyman/DIY
7.5.2 - Exhaust Systems

Exhaust Vent - Exterior Obstructed

One or more of the exhaust vents to the exterior has noticeable lint or other debris clogging the pipe. This can reduce the effectiveness of the dryer or exhaust fan, increase the chance of a fire, and allow pests to enter the venting if the end cap is propped open from lent. Recommend cleaning on a regular basis. 

Tools Handyman/DIY
7.5.3 - Exhaust Systems

Range Hood - Discharge

The range hood is not discharging to the exterior, recommend a qualified contractor to further evaluate and repair or install ducting.

Contractor Qualified Professional

8 - Plumbing

8.1 Water Shut-off Device X
8.2 Drain, Waste, & Vent Systems X
8.3 Water Supply, Distribution Systems X
8.4 Sink, Basin, Laundry Tub X X
8.5 Toilet X
8.6 Tub / Shower X X
8.7 Water Heater X X
8.8 Fuel Storage & Distribution Systems X
Water Source
Water Shut-off Device: Main Water Shut Off
Garage, Meter

Per the standards of practice, a home inspector will not turn on or off shut off valves. Over time the valve seals may become brittle and can begin to leak after use. Because of this, the inspector can not verify each main and or hose bib shut off valve. If there are any signs of damage, leaking, or corrosion, they will be noted in the report.  

Water Shut-off Device: Pressure Regulator
Water Shut-off Device: Hose Bib Shut Off
Garage, Under Kitchen Sink
Drain, Waste, & Vent Systems: Primary Drain - size and material
2", 3", ABS
Drain, Waste, & Vent Systems: Primary Venting - size and material
Typical 1.5" & 2", ABS
Water Supply, Distribution Systems: Distribution Material
Water Supply, Distribution Systems: Service Pipe Into Building
Sink, Basin, Laundry Tub: Sufficient Water Temp

The temperature may be skewed based on the exact positioning of the thermal camera. These images are for reference only to show hot water was available at the time of inspection. If the temperatures are too hot, it should be turned down at a regulator and or water heater.

Tub / Shower: Shower/Bath Temp Sufficient

The temperature may be skewed based on the exact positioning of the thermal camera. These images are for reference only to show hot water was available at the time of inspection. If the temperatures are too hot, it should be turned down at a regulator and or water heater.

Water Heater: Manufacturer

I recommend flushing & servicing your water heater tank annually for optimal performance. Water temperature should be set to at least 120 degrees F to kill microbes and no higher than 130 degrees F to prevent scalding. 

Here is a nice maintenance guide from Lowe's to help. 

Water Heater: Power Source/Type
Water Heater: Capacity
40 gallons
Water Heater: Location
Water Heater: Approximate Age
Water Heater: Risk of Potential Failure
Water Heater: Gas Shutoff

This valve is used to turn off the supply of gas to the water heater.

Water Heater: TPR Drain information

Click the link below for information about the Water heater TPR (temperature pressure regulator) valve.  

TPR Information

Water Heater: Typical Life Expenctancy
8-12 Years
Fuel Storage & Distribution Systems: Main Gas Shut-off Location
Gas Meter

I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the main water supply shut-off valve; B. the main fuel supply shut-off valve; C. the water heating equipment, including the energy source, venting connections, temperature/pressure-relief (TPR) valves, Watts 210 valves, and seismic bracing; D. interior water supply, including all fixtures and faucets, by running the water; E. all toilets for proper operation by flushing; F. all sinks, tubs and showers for functional drainage; G. the drain, waste and vent system; and H. drainage sump pumps with accessible floats. II. The inspector shall describe: A. whether the water supply is public or private based upon observed evidence; B. the location of the main water supply shut-off valve; C. the location of the main fuel supply shut-off valve; D. the location of any observed fuel-storage system; and E. the capacity of the water heating equipment, if labeled. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously; B. deficiencies in the installation of hot and cold water faucets; C. mechanical drain stops that were missing or did not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs; and D. toilets that were damaged, had loose connections to the floor, were leaking, or had tank components that did not operate. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. light or ignite pilot flames. B. measure the capacity, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. inspect the interior of flues or chimneys, combustion air systems, water softener or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-off valves, floor drains, lawn sprinkler systems, or fire sprinkler systems. D. determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature or adequacy of the water supply. E. determine the water quality, potability or reliability of the water supply or source. F. open sealed plumbing access panels. G. inspect clothes washing machines or their connections. H. operate any valve. I. test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage or functional overflow protection. J. evaluate the compliance with conservation, energy or building standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, backflow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. determine whether there are sufficient cleanouts for effective cleaning of drains. M. evaluate fuel storage tanks or supply systems. N. inspect wastewater treatment systems. O. inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. inspect water storage tanks, pressure pumps, or bladder tanks. Q. evaluate wait time to obtain hot water at fixtures, or perform testing of any kind to water heater elements. R. evaluate or determine the adequacy of combustion air. S. test, operate, open or close: safety controls, manual stop valves, temperature/pressure-relief valves, control valves, or check valves. T. examine ancillary or auxiliary systems or components, such as, but not limited to, those related to solar water heating and hot water circulation. U. determine the existence or condition of polybutylene plumbing. V. inspect or test for gas or fuel leaks, or indications thereof.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
8.4.1 - Sink, Basin, Laundry Tub

Drain Stop - Missing
Half Bath

During the inspection one or more of the sinks was found to be missing its drain stop, this will limit the inspection and not allow to test the overflow. Recommend installing a drain stop or plug.

Pipes Plumbing Contractor
8.4.2 - Sink, Basin, Laundry Tub

Fixture - Supply Insufficient
Kitchen, 2nd Floor Hall Bathroom

Water supply was found insufficient. This could be in result of a kinked line, damaged or clogged valve, or clogged/deteriorating pipe. Recommend a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair. 

Pipes Plumbing Contractor
8.4.3 - Sink, Basin, Laundry Tub

Sink - Surface Damage

The sink has surface damage that is cosmetic but could also lead to a potential leak in the future. Recommend replacing the fixture at your own convenience. 

Pipes Plumbing Contractor
8.6.1 - Tub / Shower

Caulking/Grout Failing
2nd Floor Hall Bathroom

Some of the caulking or grout in the bath and or shower area is failing. Caulking/grout is one of the most common items to fail in the bathroom. Because of its common failure rate it is also one of the largest contributors moisture damage in the bathroom. Recommend removing, cleaning, caulking/grouting, and inspecting on a regular basis to control the moisture in the bathroom.

Tools Handyman/DIY
8.6.2 - Tub / Shower

Tub/Shower - Drain Stop Missing / Inadequate
2nd Floor Hall Bathroom, Master Bathroom

During the inspection there was no way to properly plug the drain and fill the tub. Recommend replacing with a new drain stop of plug.

8.7.1 - Water Heater

Approaching Life Expectancy

The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years.  This water heater appears to be approaching this age and may need replacing at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.

Life Expectancy

Pipes Plumbing Contractor
8.7.2 - Water Heater

Water Temp Unsafe

The water heater is turned up to produce water hotter than 120 degrees at the fixtures. This can generally be fixed by adjusting the thermostat at the water heater. Some styles such as electric water heaters may require the removal of panels which can leave you exposed to active electrical. Recommend contacting a licensed plumbing contractor if you are not comfortable in safely lowering the temperature. 

Contractor Qualified Professional

9 - Doors, Windows & Interior

9.1 Doors X X
9.2 Windows X X
9.3 Floors X
9.4 Walls X X
9.5 Ceilings X X
9.6 Steps, Stairways & Railings X
9.7 Trim X X
9.8 Countertops & Cabinets X X
Windows: Window Type
Fixed, Single Hung, Sliders
Windows: Glazing
Windows: Material
Floors: Floor Coverings
Carpet, Resilient, Laminate
Walls: Wall Material
Ceilings: Ceiling Material
Compressed Board
Countertops & Cabinets: Countertop Material
Countertops & Cabinets: Cabinetry
Laminate, Wood

I. The inspector shall inspect: A. a representative number of doors and windows by opening and closing them; B. floors, walls and ceilings; C. stairs, steps, landings, stairways and ramps; D. railings, guards and handrails; and E. garage vehicle doors and the operation of garage vehicle door openers, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. a garage vehicle door as manually-operated or installed with a garage door opener. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails for steps, stairways, guards and railings; B. photo-electric safety sensors that did not operate properly; and C. any window that was obviously fogged or displayed other evidence of broken seals. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. inspect floor coverings or carpeting. C. inspect central vacuum systems. D. inspect for safety glazing. E. inspect security systems or components. F. evaluate the fastening of islands, countertops, cabinets, sink tops or fixtures. G. move furniture, stored items, or any coverings, such as carpets or rugs, in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. H. move suspended-ceiling tiles. I. inspect or move any household appliances. J. inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage, except as otherwise noted. K. verify or certify the proper operation of any pressure-activated auto-reverse or related safety feature of a garage door. L. operate or evaluate any security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including their compliance with local, state or federal standards. M. operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations or devices. N. operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles, tilt guards/latches, or signal lights. O. inspect microwave ovens or test leakage from microwave ovens. P. operate or examine any sauna, steamgenerating equipment, kiln, toaster, ice maker, coffee maker, can opener, bread warmer, blender, instant hot-water dispenser, or other small, ancillary appliances or devices. Q. inspect elevators. R. inspect remote controls. S. inspect appliances. T. inspect items not permanently installed. U. discover firewall compromises. V. inspect pools, spas or fountains. W. determine the adequacy of whirlpool or spa jets, water force, or bubble effects. X. determine the structural integrity or leakage of pools or spas.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
9.1.1 - Doors

Door - Latch Alignment
2nd Floor Northwest Bedroom

Door latch and/or strike plate is out of alignment. Recommend a handyman repair.

Tools Handyman/DIY
9.1.2 - Doors

Door - Poor Alignment
2nd Floor Hall Bathroom

The doors alignment will not allow it to open or close properly. Recommend adjusting to allow for proper use.

Door Door Repair and Installation Contractor
9.2.1 - Windows

Window - Broken Seal

Observed condensation/debris between the window panes, which indicates a failed seal. Recommend a licensed and qualified window contractor to further evaluate & replace.

Depending on the weather, season, and other factors, one or more other windows or sliders could have a broken seal but are not showing significant enough signs to notice. These will likely show up at some point and may need replacement.

Window Window Repair and Installation Contractor
9.2.2 - Windows

Blinds - Damaged
Living Room

One or more blinds were found damaged or no operating properly during the time of inspection.

9.4.1 - Walls

Settling Cracks
2nd Floor Hall

Minor cracks on the walls in one or more locations. Appeared to be the result of long-term settling. Some settling is not unusual in a home of this age and these cracks appear not to be a  structural concern.

Putty knife Drywall Contractor
9.5.1 - Ceilings

Living Room

One or more areas of the ceiling have been patched. This may have been from physical damaged or a leaking fixture/roof above. Recommend monitoring for future issues.

Mag glass Monitor
9.7.1 - Trim

Floor Trim - Moisture Damage
Master Bathroom

One or more areas of the flooring trim has signs of previous moisture damage. In areas such as a bathroom this could be caused from water splashing out of a bathtub/shower, a toilet or sink overflowing or leaking, or a leaking valve. In other areas the moisture source can be from wet debris, leaking pipes, or even a leak in the roof. Recommend monitoring and seeking further assistance if the problem persists.

Hammer Carpentry Contractor
9.8.1 - Countertops & Cabinets

Countertop - Deterioration Caulk/Grout

Countertops have deteriorating grout and or insufficient caulk/sealant at the wall. This can lead to water damage. Recommend cleaning/removing existing sealant replacing at sides and corners where counters touch walls. Caulking tends to last longer in these areas due to its elasticity. 

Here is a helpful DIY video on caulking gaps. 

Tools Handyman/DIY

10 - Garage

10.1 Garage Door X
10.2 Garage Door Opener X
10.3 Bollard X
10.4 Occupant Door (From garage to inside of home) X X
10.5 Attic X
10.6 Walls & Firewalls X
10.7 Ceiling X
10.8 Floor X
Garage Door: Material
Metal, Insulated
Garage Door: Type
Up-and-Over, Automatic
Garage Door Opener: Door Safety Sensors

Garage door sensors are typically located within 6" of a garage floor unless the installation instructions specifically state otherwise. These sensors are here for safety to prevent items or persons from being injured or damaged by the weight of the door. Sensors can often be hit or damaged from objects in the garage and will limit the function of the garage door equipment. In this situation a garage door professional should be consulted to re-align and or replace the sensor. For temporary use of the garage door while the sensors are misaligned, the equipment can be operated by holding the opener button down to override the safety protocols. This should only be used in emergency situations. 

Garage Door Opener: Over Head Equipment

During a home inspection, the inspector will operate the overhead garage equipment utilizing standard operating controls. If the equipment or any other areas of the garage door appear to be damaged, the equipment and or door may not be operated. 

Bollard: Bollard for Appliances
Not Required
Occupant Door (From garage to inside of home): Door Type

Door fire ratings typically can not be determined without proper paper work or manufacture labels. All man doors between a livable area and a attached garage need a fire rated door per specific regional codes. Recommend contacting a door installation contractor if you are un-certain of the doors fire rating.

Attic: Attic

Attics soley over a garage or other non-conditioned areas do not require insulation. 

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
10.4.1 - Occupant Door (From garage to inside of home)

Seal - Deteriorated

The man door into the garage is has a deteriorated weather seal. Recommend installing to properly and safely seal the garage from the inside of the house. The purpose of this seal is to assist in fire rating, prevent toxic fumes from entering the living space, and increase efficiency. 

Tools Handyman/DIY

11 - Built-in Appliances

11.1 Refrigerator X
11.2 Range/Oven/Cooktop X
11.3 Dishwasher X
11.4 Built-in Microwave X
11.5 Garbage Disposal X X
11.6 Washing Machine X
11.7 Dryer X
Refrigerator: Brand
Refrigerator: Performance

During the time of inspection, the appliance appeared to be operating within normal temperatures. 

Range/Oven/Cooktop: Brand - Range
Range/Oven/Cooktop: Oven Energy Source

During the time of inspection, the appliance appeared to be operating within normal temperatures.

Range/Oven/Cooktop: Range Energy Source

During the time of inspection, the appliance appeared to be operating within normal temperatures.

Dishwasher: Brand
Dishwasher: Performance

During the time of inspection, the appliance appeared to be operating properly and within normal temperatures.

Built-in Microwave: Brand
Built-in Microwave: Performance

During the time of inspection, the appliance appeared to be operating within normal temperatures.

Garbage Disposal: Operational

The garbage disposal was tested and functioning during the time of the inspection. 

  1. Use plenty of water. Every time you run your disposal, turn on the cold water while the food is being chopped up. After you hear the grinding of the motor turn into a soft whir, turn off the device and let the water continue to run for about 10 to 20 seconds. The running water will carry any remaining particles out of the disposal and will more completely flush the pipes.
  2. Use cold water. While hot water wont damage the parts, cold water is better while running the disposal. Hot water will liquefy greases and fats. When they are in liquid form, grease adheres to the blades and will build up on them.
  3. Avoid hard or fibrous foods. Disposals are for foods that grind into bits and pieces easily. Hard seeds, popcorn kernels, peach stones, apple seeds, or bones dont grind very well, if at all. The smaller pieces can get wedged underneath the blades causing them to jam. Fibrous foods should be avoided, also, because the fibers tend to wrap themselves around the blades causing them to jam, too. Therefore, avoid onion skins, egg shells, celery stalks, corn husks, etc.
  4. Clean the inside. Over time, it is natural for sludge to build up on the sides and blades of your appliance. It is best to avoid using harsh chemicals since they can damage the parts of your device. You can get a natural chemical reaction by putting baking soda down the drain and pouring vinegar on top of it. Another easy method is to combine the sharpening with the cleaning by putting about a cup of rock salt down the drain when you grind up your ice cubes.
  5. Dont put your hands in the disposal. When wedged food is removed, the sudden release of tension can make the blades spring into action and cause injury. Try using pliers. If that doesnt work, a plumber should be contacted for repairs.
Washing Machine: Washing Machine - Not Part of Sale
Dryer: Dryer Power Source
220 Electric
Dryer: Dryer Vent
Metal (Flex)
Dryer: Dryer - Not Part of Sale

10.1 The inspector shall inspect: F. installed ovens, ranges, surface cooking appliances, permanently installed microwave ovens, dish-washing machines, and food waste grinders by using normal operating controls to activate the primary function.

10.2 The inspector is NOT required to inspect: G. installed and free-standing kitchen and laundry appliances not listed in Section 10.1.F. Appliance thermostats including their calibration, adequacy of heating elements, self cleaning oven cycles, indicator lights, door seals, timers, clocks, timed features, and other specialized features of the appliance. I. operate, or confirm the operation of every control and feature of an inspected appliance.

  • IN = Inspected
  • NI = Not Inspected / Accessible
  • NP = Not Present
  • D = Deficiencies
11.5.1 - Garbage Disposal

Damaged - Hole/Crack

A hole/crack was found in the garbage disposal causing a leak. Often times parts can be found to repair this but it tends to be more economical to just replace the unit.

12 - Sewer Scope

General: Results


A passing sewer lateral may show little to no risk of a backup or other catastrophic failures. A slight off joint, short and or shallow belly, or small defect in the line may be present but as long as they do not appear to be compromising the line or its functionality, it is considered to be sound. An item such as these may worsen in time and may also be requested for repair at the time of the next sale. Our inspection is of the current state of the sewer lateral on the day of inspection.

Access Point / Clean Out: Size and Material
3" ABS
Access Point / Clean Out: Location
Exterior, East
Segment One: Material / Size
3", ABS
Segment One: Start / Finish
0 - 37 Ft.
Segment Two: Material / Size
4", 3034 PVC
Segment Two: Start / Finish
37 - 73.5 Ft.
Segment Two: Reached the Main

The sewer main is typically located under the city street but it may actually run behind or between two properties. Many factors contribute to the location of the sewer main. The sewer main will generally be 8" or larger and will run perpendicular to the sewer lateral. A sewer main is owned by the city and in most cases is 100% maintained by the city or local jurisdiction. 

Video Link

  1. A sewer scope is a video camera inspection to evaluate the sewer line (lateral) from the exterior of the house to the sewer main or sewer service point of the property. 
  2. The line is accessed through a clean out or access point in the home, which could include a basement/crawlspace clean out, or a roof vent. The inspector will determine the best access point, and the report will outline where the line was entered. For safety of the home inspector and building components, a roof shot (accessing the lateral from a roof vent) may not be feasible. A roof shot can only be attempted if there is a 3" or larger vent stack.
  3. In some cases when a clean out is not accessible, the inspector may choose to use a smaller camera scope. This will allow access through smaller lines but may offer reduced visibility while in larger lines. 
  4. The inspector will make his best assessment to the line quality based on the video images. The sewer scope inspection does not inspect any drain lines in the home or the drain lines running underneath the basement slab, for example. The intent is to inspect the lateral that runs from the house to the final service point, and to inspect this buried line for defects.
  5. Defects will be noted in the report and if possible, will be noted at a specific footage inside of the lateral from the access point. If necessary the home inspector may locate the defect, this will be identified in the report.
  6. At any point, a licensed plumber specializing in sewer laterals should be consulted if there is any concern that a problem exists in the sewer line.