Internachi Certified Professional Inspector, Licensed...
This Inspection Report is based on a visual, non-intrusive inspection. While every effort is made to identify and report all current or potential issues with a home, please understand that there are simply areas that cannot be seen- such as within the wall structure, etc. An inspector is considered to be a "Generalist" in that the job is to identify and report potential issues rather than diagnose the specific cause or repair items. For this reason, you will find that it is often recommended to seek further evaluation by a qualified professional such as an Electrical, Plumbing, or Roofing contractor.
The report includes Informational data on various components of the home, Limitations that affected the ability to inspect certain items/areas, and Recommendations for items that require immediate or future attention.
Observations and Recommendations are organized into two categories by level of severity:
1) Recommendations - Most items typically fall into this category. These observations may require a qualified contractor to evaluate further and repair or replace.
2) Safety Concerns - This category is composed of immediate safety concerns.
The outside temperature will impact various portions of the inspection. If its too cool, we will be unable to fully test the A/C. If too warm, same goes for the furnace.
Now that you've bought your home and had your inspection, you may still have some questions about your new house and the items revealed in your report.
Home maintenance is a primary responsibility for every homeowner, whether you've lived in several homes of your own or have just purchased your first one. Staying on top of a seasonal home maintenance schedule is important, and your InterNACHI Certified Professional Inspector can help you figure this out so that you never fall behind. Don't let minor maintenance and routine repairs turn into expensive disasters later due to neglect or simply because you aren't sure what needs to be done and when.
Your home inspection report is a great place to start. In addition to the written report, checklists, photos, and what the inspector said during the inspection not to mention the sellers disclosure and what you noticed yourself it's easy to become overwhelmed. However, it's likely that your inspection report included mostly maintenance recommendations, the life expectancy for the home's various systems and components, and minor imperfections. These are useful to know about.
But the issues that really matter fall into four categories:
Anything in these categories should be addressed as soon as possible. Often, a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).
Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. It's important to realize that sellers are under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in your inspection report. No house is perfect. Keep things in perspective as you move into your new home.
And remember that homeownership is both a joyful experience and an important responsibility, so be sure to call on your InterNACHI Certified Professional Inspector to help you devise an annual maintenance plan that will keep your family safe and your home in good condition for years to come.
Even the most vigilant homeowner can, from time to time, miss small problems or forget about performing some routine home repairs and seasonal maintenance. That's why an Annual Home Maintenance Inspection will help you keep your home in good condition and prevent it from suffering serious, long-term and expensive damage from minor issues that should be addressed now.
The most important thing to understand as a new homeowner is that your house requires care and regular maintenance. As time goes on, parts of your house will wear out, break down, deteriorate, leak, or simply stop working. But none of these issues means that you will have a costly disaster on your hands if you're on top of home maintenance, and that includes hiring an expert once a year.
Just as you regularly maintain your vehicle, consider getting an Annual Home Maintenance Inspection as part of the cost of upkeep for your most valuable investment your home.
Your InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector can show you what you should look for so that you can be an informed homeowner. Protect your family's health and safety, and enjoy your home for years to come by having an Annual Home Maintenance Inspection performed every year.
Schedule next year's maintenance inspection with your home inspector today!
Every house should be inspected every year as part of a homeowner's routine home maintenance plan. Catch problems before they become major defects.
If your home inspector misses anything, InterNACHI will buy your home back.
And now for the fine print:
For more information, please visit www.nachi.org/buy.
InterNACHI is so certain of the integrity of our members that we back them up with our $10,000 Honor Guarantee.
InterNACHI will pay up to $10,000 USD for the cost of replacement of personal property lost during an inspection and stolen by an InterNACHI-certified member who was convicted of or pleaded guilty to any criminal charge resulting from the member's taking of the client's personal property.
For details, please visit www.nachi.org/honor.
We recommend obtaining from the Owner (and Public Records) all available Information, User's Guides/Owner's Manuals, Receipts, Warranties, Permits, Insurance Claims, and Warranty Transferability & Fees regarding the Repairs, Upgrades, and Components of the Home & Lot.
The roof inspection portion of the General Home Inspection will not be as comprehensive as an inspection performed by a qualified roofing contractor. Because of variations in installation requirements of the huge number of different roof-covering materials installed over the years, the General Home Inspection does not include confirmation of proper installation. Home Inspectors are trained to identify common deficiencies and to recognize conditions that require evaluation by a specialist. Inspection of the roof typically includes visual evaluation of the roof structure, roof-covering materials, flashing, and roof penetrations like chimneys, mounting hardware for roof-mounted equipment, attic ventilation devices, ducts for evaporative coolers, and combustion and plumbing vents. The roof inspection does not include leak-testing and will not certify or warranty the roof against future leakage. Other limitations may apply and will be included in the comments as necessary.
Your job as the homeowner is to monitor the roof covering because any roof can leak. To monitor a roof that is inaccessible or that cannot be walked on safely, use binoculars. Look for deteriorating or loosening of flashing, signs of damage to the roof covering and debris that can clog valleys and gutters.
Roofs are designed to be water-resistant. Roofs are not designed to be waterproof. Eventually, the roof system will leak. No one can predict when, where or how a roof will leak.
Every roof should be inspected every year as part of a homeowner's routine home maintenance plan. Catch problems before they become major defects.
The roof was covered with 3-tab fiberglass composition asphalt shingles. Composition shingles are composed of a fiberglass mat embedded in asphalt and covered with ceramic-coated mineral granules.
Monitor the gutters and be sure that they function during and after a rainstorm. Look for loose parts, sagging gutter ends, and water leaks. The rain water should be diverted far away from the house foundation.
Flashing is a general term used to describe sheet metal fabricated into shapes and used to protect areas of the roof from moisture intrusion. Inspection typically includes inspection for condition and proper installation of flashing in the following locations: - roof penetrations such as vents, electrical masts, chimneys, mechanical equipment, patio cover attachment points, and around skylights; - junctions at which roofs meet walls; - roof edges; - areas at which roofs change slope; - areas at which roof-covering materials change; and - areas at which different roof planes meet (such as valleys).
This is a visual-only inspection of the roof-covering materials. It does not include an inspection of the entire system. There are components of the roof that are not visible or accessible at all, including the underlayment, decking, fastening, flashing, age, shingle quality, manufacturer installation recommendations, etc.
I attempted to inspect the flashing related to the vent pipes, wall intersections, eaves and gables, and the roof-covering materials. In general, there should be flashing installed in certain areas where the roof covering meets something else, like a vent pipe or siding. Most flashing is not observable, because the flashing material itself is covered and hidden by the roof covering or other materials. So, it's impossible to see everything. A home inspection is a limited visual-only inspection.
I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or the eaves: A. the roof-covering materials; B. the gutters; C. the downspouts; D. the vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, and other roof penetrations; and E. the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of roof-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of active roof leaks. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. walk on any roof surface. B. predict the service life expectancy. C. inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. move insulation. F. inspect antennae, satellite dishes, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments. G. walk on any roof areas that appear, in the inspectors opinion, to be unsafe. H. walk on any roof areas if doing so might, in the inspector's opinion, cause damage. I. perform a water test. J. warrant or certify the roof. K. confirm proper fastening or installation of any roof-covering material.
Moss can shorten the lifespan of a shingled roof and result in costly repairs both structural and cosmetic that would not be necessary if the roof were maintained properly and kept clear of moss. It is best to carefully remove it with chemicals and a brush or broom on a regular basis typically once or twice a year.
The roof had multiple layers of composition asphalt shingles installed at the time of the inspection. One layer is now the maximum allowed. This condition will result in the following: - When new roofing is required, all layers will need to be removed before new roofing material can be installed. Whoever owns the home at the time of replacement will be required to pay for removal and disposal of the old shingles, and for materials and installation of the new roof-covering materials. This is much more expensive than simply adding another layer and you may wish to take this into account in your consideration of this property. - Reduced asphalt shingle service-life of the existing shingle roof compared to similar shingles installed over a proper substrate. - Any warranty offered for the shingles is now void. - Shingles will be more easily damaged by hail.
One or more downspouts designed to discharge roof drainage was damaged or in disrepair to an extent that may limit its ability to function as designed. This condition can result in excessively high moisture levels in soil at the foundation and can cause damage related to soil/foundation movement. Excessive moisture levels in soil near the foundation can effect the ability of the soil to support the weight of the structure above and can cause damage related to soil/foundation movement. The Inspector recommends repair to help protect the home structure. All work should be performed by a qualified contractor.
Downspouts at the home were connected to (underground) perimeter drains. Any blockage in the perimeter drain pipes may cause roof drainage to be diverted to soil around and beneath the home foundation. In the spring, underground drains may remain frozen after ice in gutters and downspouts has melted, causing roof drainage to overflow the gutters and spill onto soil near the foundation. This condition can result in excessively high moisture levels in soil at the foundation and can cause damage related to soil/foundation movement. Excessive moisture levels in soil near the foundation can effect the ability of the soil to support the weight of the structure above and can cause damage related to soil/foundation movement. The inspector recommends re-routing roof drainage so that it drains into soil away from the foundation
Roof flashing showed signs of corrosion, but are still in working condition. Flashing should be monitored to prevent severe corrosion leading to moisture intrusion.
Sealant needs maintenance and debris needs removed to prevent deterioration.
The exterior of your home is slowly deteriorating and aging. The sun, wind, rain and temperatures are constantly affecting it. Your job is to monitor the buildings exterior for its condition and weather-tightness.
Check the condition of all exterior materials and look for developing patterns of damage or deterioration.
During a heavy rainstorm (without lightning), grab an umbrella and go outside. Walk around your house and look around at the roof and property. A rainstorm is the perfect time to see how the roof, downspouts and grading are performing. Observe the drainage patterns of your entire property, as well as the property of your neighbor. The ground around your house should slope away from all sides. Downspouts, surface gutters and drains should be directing water away from the foundation.
Inspection of the home exterior typically includes: exterior wall covering materials, window and door exteriors, adequate surface drainage, driveway and walkways, window wells, exterior electrical components, exterior plumbing components, potential tree problems, and retaining wall conditions that may affect the home structure. Note: The General Home Inspection does not include inspection of landscape irrigation systems, fencing or swimming pools/spas unless pre-arranged as ancillary inspections.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the exterior wall-covering materials, flashing and trim; B. all exterior doors; C. adjacent walkways and driveways; D. stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps; E. porches, patios, decks, balconies and carports; F. railings, guards and handrails; G. the eaves, soffits and fascia; H. a representative number of windows; and I. vegetation, surface drainage, retaining walls and grading of the property, where they may adversely affect the structure due to moisture intrusion. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of exterior wall-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. inspect items that are not visible or readily accessible from the ground, including window and door flashing. C. inspect or identify geological, geotechnical, hydrological or soil conditions. D. inspect recreational facilities or playground equipment. E. inspect seawalls, breakwalls or docks. F. inspect erosion-control or earth-stabilization measures. G. inspect for safety-type glass. H. inspect underground utilities. I. inspect underground items. J. inspect wells or springs. K. inspect solar, wind or geothermal systems. L. inspect swimming pools or spas. M. inspect wastewater treatment systems, septic systems or cesspools. N. inspect irrigation or sprinkler systems. O. inspect drainfields or dry wells. P. determine the integrity of multiple-pane window glazing or thermal window seals.
Minor cosmetic cracks observed. Recommend seal and monitor.
The paint or finish is failing. This can lead to deterioration and rot of the material. Recommend that the araes be properly prepared and painted / finished.
Vegetation needs trimmed. This is an entryway for pests and possible moisture.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. a representative number of doors and windows by opening and closing them; B. floors, walls and ceilings; C. stairs, steps, landings, stairways and ramps; D. railings, guards and handrails; and E. garage vehicle doors and the operation of garage vehicle door openers, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. a garage vehicle door as manually-operated or installed with a garage door opener. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails for steps, stairways, guards and railings; B. photo-electric safety sensors that did not operate properly; and C. any window that was obviously fogged or displayed other evidence of broken seals. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. inspect floor coverings or carpeting. C. inspect central vacuum systems. D. inspect for safety glazing. E. inspect security systems or components. F. evaluate the fastening of islands, countertops, cabinets, sink tops or fixtures. G. move furniture, stored items, or any coverings, such as carpets or rugs, in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. H. move suspended-ceiling tiles. I. inspect or move any household appliances. J. inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage, except as otherwise noted. K. verify or certify the proper operation of any pressure-activated auto-reverse or related safety feature of a garage door. L. operate or evaluate any security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including their compliance with local, state or federal standards. M. operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations or devices. N. operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles, tilt guards/latches, or signal lights. O. inspect microwave ovens or test leakage from microwave ovens. P. operate or examine any sauna, steamgenerating equipment, kiln, toaster, ice maker, coffee maker, can opener, bread warmer, blender, instant hot-water dispenser, or other small, ancillary appliances or devices. Q. inspect elevators. R. inspect remote controls. S. inspect appliances. T. inspect items not permanently installed. U. discover firewall compromises. V. inspect pools, spas or fountains. W. determine the adequacy of whirlpool or spa jets, water force, or bubble effects. X. determine the structural integrity or leakage of pools or spas.
Door sticks and is tough to open. Recommend sanding down offending sides.
Here is a helpful DIY article on how to fix a sticking door.
Stains on the ceiling were visible at the time of the inspection. The moisture meter showed no elevated levels of moisture present in the affected areas at the time of the inspection, indicating that the source of moisture may have been corrected. You should ask the seller about this condition. Before the expiration of your Inspection Objection Deadline you may wish to consult with a qualified contractor to discuss options and costs for re-painting the ceiling.
One of the most common problems in a house is a wet basement or foundation. You should monitor the walls and floors for signs of water penetration, such as dampness, water stains, peeling paint, efflorescence, and rust on exposed metal parts. In a finished basement, look for rotted or warped wood paneling and doors, loose floor tiles, and mildew stains. It may come through the walls or cracks in the floor, or from backed-up floor drains, leaky plumbing lines, or a clogged air-conditioner condensate line.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the foundation; B. the basement; C. the crawlspace; and D. structural components. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of foundation; and B. the location of the access to the under-floor space. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of wood in contact with or near soil; B. observed indications of active water penetration; C. observed indications of possible foundation movement, such as sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames, and unlevel floors; and D. any observed cutting, notching and boring of framing members that may, in the inspector's opinion, present a structural or safety concern. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter any crawlspace that is not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to him/herself. B. move stored items or debris. C. operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. identify the size, spacing, span or location or determine the adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists, joist spans or support systems. E. provide any engineering or architectural service. F. report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.
High levels of moisture were noted in areas of the basement. Recommend monitoring and finding source of moisture intrusion to prevent damage to structure.
Attic ventilation disclaimer
The Inspector disclaims confirmation of adequate attic ventilation year-round performance, but will comment on the apparent adequacy of the system as experienced by the inspector on the day of the inspection. Attic ventilation is not an exact science and a standard ventilation approach that works well in one type of climate zone may not work well in another. The performance of a standard attic ventilation design system can vary even with different homesite locations and conditions or weather conditions within a single climate zone.
The typical approach is to thermally isolate the attic space from the living space by installing some type of thermal insulation on the attic floor. Heat that is radiated into the attic from sunlight shining on the roof is then removed using devices that allow natural air movement to carry hot air to the home exterior. This reduces summer cooling costs and increases comfort levels, and can help prevent roof problems that can develop during the winter such as the forming of ice dams along the roof eves.
Natural air movement is introduced by providing air intake vents low in the attic space and exhaust vents high in the attic space. Thermal buoyancy (the tendency of hot air to rise) causes cool air to flow into the attic to replace hot air flowing out the exhaust vents. Conditions that block ventilation devices, or systems and devices that are poorly designed or installed can reduce the system performance.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. insulation in unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; B. ventilation of unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; and C. mechanical exhaust systems in the kitchen, bathrooms and laundry area. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of insulation observed; and B. the approximate average depth of insulation observed at the unfinished attic floor area or roof structure. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. the general absence of insulation or ventilation in unfinished spaces. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter the attic or any unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or, in the inspector's opinion, pose a safety hazard. B. move, touch or disturb insulation. C. move, touch or disturb vapor retarders. D. break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels or covers. E. identify the composition or R-value of insulation material. F. activate thermostatically operated fans. G. determine the types of materials used in insulation or wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers or wiring. H. determine the adequacy of ventilation.
Most HVAC (heating, ventilating and air-conditioning) systems in houses are relatively simple in design and operation. They consist of four components: controls, fuel supply, heating or cooling unit, and distribution system. The adequacy of heating and cooling is often quite subjective and depends upon occupant perceptions that are affected by the distribution of air, the location of return-air vents, air velocity, the sound of the system in operation, and similar characteristics.
Make sure to get the HVAC system inspected and serviced every year. And if you're system has an air filter, be sure to keep that filter cleaned.
Inspection of heating systems is limited to basic evaluation based on visual examination and operation using normal controls. Report comments are limited to identification of common requirements and deficiencies. Observed indications that further evaluation is needed will result in referral to a qualified heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC) contractor.
Inspection of heating systems typically includes:
- system operation: confirmation of adequate response to the thermostat;
- proper location;
- proper system configuration;
- component condition
- exterior cabinet condition;
- fuel supply configuration and condition;
- combustion exhaust venting;
- air distribution components;
- proper condensation discharge; and
- temperature/pressure relief valve and discharge pipe: presence, condition, and configuration.
At the time of the inspection, no deficiencies were observed in the condition of the gas-fueled fireplace. Full inspection of gas-burning fireplaces lies beyond the scope of the General Home Inspection. For a full inspection to more accurately determine the condition of the fireplace and to ensure that safe conditions exist, the Inspector recommends that you have the fireplace inspected by an inspector certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA). Find a CSIA-certified inspector near you at http://www.csia.org/search
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the heating system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the heating system; B. the energy source; and C. the heating method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any heating system that did not operate; and B. if the heating system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or evaluate the interior of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, heat exchangers, combustion air systems, fresh-air intakes, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, geothermal systems, or solar heating systems. B. inspect fuel tanks or underground or concealed fuel supply systems. C. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. light or ignite pilot flames. E. activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. override electronic thermostats. G. evaluate fuel quality. H. verify thermostat calibration, heat anticipation, or automatic setbacks, timers, programs or clocks.
Furnace was corroded in one or more areas. This could be the result of improper venting or a condensate tube leaking, which the source would need to be identified. Recommend a HVAC contractor evaluate and repair.
Air supply duct was deteriorated. Recommend a qualified HVAC contractor repair.
Most air-conditioning systems in houses are relatively simple in design and operation. The adequacy of the cooling is often quite subjective and depends upon occupant perceptions that are affected by the distribution of air, the location of return-air vents, air velocity, the sound of the system in operation, and similar characteristics.
Make sure to get the air conditioning system inspected and serviced every year. And if you're system has an air filter, be sure to keep that filter cleaned.
Inspection of home cooling systems typically includes visual examination of readily observable components for adequate condition, and system testing for proper operation using normal controls. Cooling system inspection will not be as comprehensive as that performed by a qualified heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC) system contractor. Report comments are limited to identification of common requirements and deficiencies. Observed indications that further evaluation is needed will result in referral to a qualified HVAC contractor.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the cooling system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the cooling system; and B. the cooling method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any cooling system that did not operate; and B. if the cooling system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system. B. inspect portable window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters. C. operate equipment or systems if the exterior temperature is below 65 Fahrenheit, or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. D. inspect or determine thermostat calibration, cooling anticipation, or automatic setbacks or clocks. E. examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gases, or coolant leakage.
Make sure you know where the main electrical panel is located, including the main service disconnect that turns everything off.
Be sure to test your GFCIs, AFCIs, and smoke detectors regularly. You can replace light bulbs, but more than that, you ought to hire an electrician. Electrical work is hazardous and mistakes can be fatal. Hire a professional whenever there's an electrical problem in your house.
Home branch circuit wiring consists of wiring distributing electricity to devices such as switches, receptacles, and appliances. Most conductors are hidden behind floor, wall and ceiling coverings and cannot be evaluated by the inspector. The Inspector does not remove cover plates and inspection of branch wiring is limited to proper response to testing of switches and a representative number of electrical receptacles.
Switches are sometimes connected to fixtures that require specialized conditions, such as darkness or movement, to respond. Sometimes they are connected to electrical receptacles (and sometimes only the top or bottom half of an receptacle). Often, outlets are inaccessible due to furniture or other obstructions. This being said, functionality of all switches in the home may not be confirmed by the inspector.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the service drop; B. the overhead service conductors and attachment point; C. the service head, gooseneck and drip loops; D. the service mast, service conduit and raceway; E. the electric meter and base; F. service-entrance conductors; G. the main service disconnect; H. panelboards and over-current protection devices (circuit breakers and fuses); I. service grounding and bonding; J. a representative number of switches, lighting fixtures and receptacles, including receptacles observed and deemed to be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)-protected using the AFCI test button, where possible; K. all ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacles and circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs using a GFCI tester, where possible; and L. smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the main service disconnect's amperage rating, if labeled; and B. the type of wiring observed. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the integrity of the serviceentrance conductors insulation, drip loop, and vertical clearances from grade and roofs; B. any unused circuit-breaker panel opening that was not filled; C. the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch-circuit wiring, if readily visible; D. any tested receptacle in which power was not present, polarity was incorrect, the cover was not in place, the GFCI devices were not properly installed or did not operate properly, evidence of arcing or excessive heat, and where the receptacle was not grounded or was not secured to the wall; and E. the absence of smoke detectors. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. insert any tool, probe or device into the main panelboard, sub-panels, distribution panelboards, or electrical fixtures. B. operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. remove panelboard cabinet covers or dead fronts. D. operate or re-set over-current protection devices or overload devices. E. operate or test smoke or carbon-monoxide detectors or alarms F. inspect, operate or test any security, fire or alarms systems or components, or other warning or signaling systems. G. measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service equipment, if not visibly labeled. H. inspect ancillary wiring or remote-control devices. I. activate any electrical systems or branch circuits that are not energized. J. inspect low-voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring, or any timecontrolled devices. K. verify the service ground. L. inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including, but not limited to: generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. M. inspect spark or lightning arrestors. N. inspect or test de-icing equipment. O. conduct voltage-drop calculations. P. determine the accuracy of labeling. Q. inspect exterior lighting.
Although GFCI protection may not have been required at the time the home was built, for safety reasons, the Inspector recommends that electrical receptacles located in basements, crawlspaces, garages, the home exterior, and interior receptacles located within 6 feet of a plumbing fixture be provided with ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection in good working order to avoid potential electric shock or electrocution hazards. This can be achieved relatively inexpensively by:
1. Replacing an individual standard receptacle with a GFCI receptacle.
2. Replacing the electrical circuit receptacle located closest to the overcurrent protection device (usually a breaker) with a GFCI receptacle.
3. Replacing the breaker currently protecting the electrical circuit that contains the receptacles of concern with a GFCI breaker.
Water temperature should be set to at least 120 degrees F to kill microbes and no higher than 130 degrees F to prevent scalding.
This water heater was gas-fired. Gas water heaters heat water using a gas burner located in a chamber beneath the water tank. The gas control mechanism contains safety features designed to prevent gas from leaking into the living space if the burner should fail for some reason. Gas-fired water heaters must be properly installed so that the gas fuel is safely delivered to the water heater and so that the water heater safely exhausts the products of combustion to the home exterior. Gas-fired water heaters can be expected to last the length of the stated warranty and after its expiration may fail at any time.
Most water distribution pipes were not visible due to wall, floor and ceiling coverings. The Inspector disclaims responsibility for inspection of pipes not directly visible.
Most drain, waste and vent pipes were not visible due to wall, ceiling and floor coverings.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the main water supply shut-off valve; B. the main fuel supply shut-off valve; C. the water heating equipment, including the energy source, venting connections, temperature/pressure-relief (TPR) valves, Watts 210 valves, and seismic bracing; D. interior water supply, including all fixtures and faucets, by running the water; E. all toilets for proper operation by flushing; F. all sinks, tubs and showers for functional drainage; G. the drain, waste and vent system; and H. drainage sump pumps with accessible floats. II. The inspector shall describe: A. whether the water supply is public or private based upon observed evidence; B. the location of the main water supply shut-off valve; C. the location of the main fuel supply shut-off valve; D. the location of any observed fuel-storage system; and E. the capacity of the water heating equipment, if labeled. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously; B. deficiencies in the installation of hot and cold water faucets; C. mechanical drain stops that were missing or did not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs; and D. toilets that were damaged, had loose connections to the floor, were leaking, or had tank components that did not operate. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. light or ignite pilot flames. B. measure the capacity, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. inspect the interior of flues or chimneys, combustion air systems, water softener or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-off valves, floor drains, lawn sprinkler systems, or fire sprinkler systems. D. determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature or adequacy of the water supply. E. determine the water quality, potability or reliability of the water supply or source. F. open sealed plumbing access panels. G. inspect clothes washing machines or their connections. H. operate any valve. I. test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage or functional overflow protection. J. evaluate the compliance with conservation, energy or building standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, backflow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. determine whether there are sufficient cleanouts for effective cleaning of drains. M. evaluate fuel storage tanks or supply systems. N. inspect wastewater treatment systems. O. inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. inspect water storage tanks, pressure pumps, or bladder tanks. Q. evaluate wait time to obtain hot water at fixtures, or perform testing of any kind to water heater elements. R. evaluate or determine the adequacy of combustion air. S. test, operate, open or close: safety controls, manual stop valves, temperature/pressure-relief valves, control valves, or check valves. T. examine ancillary or auxiliary systems or components, such as, but not limited to, those related to solar water heating and hot water circulation. U. determine the existence or condition of polybutylene plumbing. V. inspect or test for gas or fuel leaks, or indications thereof.
Water main shut-off shows signs of corrosion. Recommend a qualified plumber evaluate.
The T&P (Test and Pressure) valve on water heater needs a 3/4 threaded pipe to extend within 6 inches of floor for safety.
Note: Appliances are operated at the discretion of the Inspector.
10.1 The inspector shall inspect: F. installed ovens, ranges, surface cooking appliances, microwave ovens, dishwashing machines, and food waste grinders by using normal operating controls to activate the primary function. 10.2 The inspector is NOT required to inspect: G. installed and free-standing kitchen and laundry appliances not listed in Section 10.1.F. H. appliance thermostats including their calibration, adequacy of heating elements, self cleaning oven cycles, indicator lights, door seals, timers, clocks, timed features, and other specialized features of the appliance. I. operate, or con rm the operation of every control and feature of an inspected appliance.
Garage doors are not tested by the Inspector using specialized equipment and this inspection will not confirm compliance with manufacturer's specifications. This inspection is performed according to the Inspector's judgment from past experience. You should adjust your expectations accordingly. If you wish to ensure that the garage door automatic-reverse feature complies with the manufacturer's specifications, you should have it inspected by a qualified garage door contractor.