A copy of your invoice can be found below.
Craig Hill, CPI
Thank you for choosing Western Grand Inspections to perform your home inspection!
The inspection itself and the inspection report comply with the requirements of the Standards of Practice of Oklahoma as well as the International Association of Home Inspectors. These Standards of Practice define the scope of a home inspection. Clients sometimes assume that a home inspection will include many things that are beyond the scope. We encourage you to read the Standards of Practice so that you clearly understand what things are included in the home inspection and report. We have attached them to this report and linked them in your inspection agreement for your convenience.
This Inspection Report is based on a visual, non-invasive, snapshot-in-time inspection of readily accessible installed systems and components, for a fee, and designed to identify defects within specific systems and components defined by these Standards of Practice that are both observed and deemed material by the inspector. While every effort is made to identify and report all current or potential issues, please understand that there are simply areas that are not visible or accessible such as within the wall structure or slab, hidden components of appliances, areas blocked by personal property/storage, etc.
The general home inspection will not reveal every issue that exists or ever could exist, but only those material defects observed and deemed material on the date of the inspection. Home inspectors cannot predict future conditions, and as such, we cannot be responsible for things that are concealed or occur after the inspection.
A material defect is a specific issue with a system or component that may have a significant, adverse impact on the value of the property, that is not in normal working order, and/or that poses an unreasonable risk to people. The fact that a system or component is near, at, or beyond the end of its normal, useful life is not, in itself, a material defect.
An inspector is considered to be a "Generalist" in that the job is to identify and report potential issues rather than diagnose the specific cause of repair items or the method or materials for repair. For this reason, you will find that it is sometimes recommended to seek further evaluation by a qualified professional.
The report includes Informational data on various components of the home, Limitations that affected the ability to inspect certain items/areas, and Recommendations for items that require immediate or future attention.
Recommendations are organized into three categories by level of severity:
1) Upgrades and/or Minor Maintenance Recommendations - These recommendations are more informational in nature and represent more of a future to-do list rather than something you might use as a negotiation or seller-repair item. A Summary Report can be created should you choose to view a report without these minor items.
2) Moderate Recommendations - Most items typically fall into this category. These recommendations may require a qualified contractor to evaluate further and repair or replace, but the cost is somewhat reasonable. These recommendations may also include maintenance items that if left unattended could result in further degradation of the home and/or create a significant safety concern.
3) Significant and/or Safety Concerns - This category is composed of immediate safety concerns and/or items that could represent a significant expense to repair/replace.
The report has been prepared for the exclusive use of our client. No use by third parties is intended. We will not be responsible to any parties for the contents of the report, other than the party named herein . The report is copyrighted and may not be used in whole or in part without our express written permission.
This is meant to be an Honest, Impartial, Third-Party assessment. I am more than happy to discuss anything in more detail.
Please reach out if you have any questions or need further explanation on anything identified in this report.
You have the ability to purchase an 18 month warranty for the price of 12 months since we performed your home inspection.
To see prices and learn more click the link below.
The outside temperature will impact various portions of the inspection. If its too cool, we will be unable to fully test the A/C.
For the sake of this inspection the front of the home will be considered as the portion of the home facing the road. References to the "left" or "right" of the home should be construed as standing in the front yard and facing the front of the home.
For the purpose of this report all directions are given as if you are standing facing the front of the house. Items listed as Multiple Locations may not directly reference all effected locations. Examples may be given that should not be construed as the only affected areas. Further evaluation will need to take place to determine every effected location.
We recommend obtaining from the Owner (and Public Records) all available Information, User's Guides/Owner's Manuals, Receipts, Warranties, Permits, Insurance Claims, and Warranty Transferability & Fees regarding the Repairs, Upgrades, and Components of the Home & Lot.
The roof inspection portion of the General Home Inspection will not be as comprehensive as an inspection performed by a qualified roofing contractor. Because of variations in installation requirements of the huge number of different roof-covering materials installed over the years, the General Home Inspection does not include confirmation of proper installation. Home Inspectors are trained to identify common deficiencies and to recognize conditions that require evaluation by a specialist. Inspection of the roof typically includes visual evaluation of the roof structure, roof-covering materials, flashing, and roof penetrations like chimneys, mounting hardware for roof-mounted equipment, attic ventilation devices, ducts for evaporative coolers, and combustion and plumbing vents. The roof inspection does not include leak-testing and will not certify or warranty the roof against future leakage. Other limitations may apply and will be included in the comments as necessary.
Flashing is a general term used to describe sheet metal fabricated into shapes and used to protect areas of the roof from moisture intrusion. Inspection typically includes inspection for condition and proper installation of flashing in the following locations: - roof penetrations such as vents, electrical masts, chimneys, mechanical equipment, patio cover attachment points, and around skylights; - junctions at which roofs meet walls; - roof edges; - areas at which roofs change slope; - areas at which roof-covering materials change; and - areas at which different roof planes meet (such as valleys).
The underlayment was hidden beneath the roof-covering material. Some edges may have been visible. It was not fully inspected, and the Inspector disclaims responsibility for evaluating its condition or confirming its presence.
There were one or more areas where a satellite has been secured to the roof surface. Repair/seal these areas as needed.
There is no or partial guttering on the structure. We recommend installing guttering to all applicable areas of the structure.
One or more flashings are damaged. To prevent possible moisture intrusion into the building structure we recommend having the flashing repaired and/or replaced.
The chimney cap had severe deterioration and appeared to be at the end of its useful life. Failure of the cap can allow moisture intrusion of the chimney structure that can damage the structure and create unhealthy conditions.
Inspection of the home exterior typically includes: exterior wall covering materials, window and door exteriors, adequate surface drainage, driveway and walkways, window wells, exterior electrical components, exterior plumbing components, potential tree problems, and retaining wall conditions that may affect the home structure.
Note: The General Home Inspection does not include inspection of detached structures, landscaping, landscape irrigation and drainage systems, fencing, ponds, fountains, decorative items, well & septic systems, or swimming pools/spas unless pre-arranged as ancillary inspections.
Comment on any nearby water courses is not within the scope of our inspection. The owner/occupant may have information regarding the volume of water during adverse weather and if there has been flooding or erosion in the past.
Environmental issues are outside the scope of a home inspection. This includes issues such as mold, lead-based paint, radon, asbestos, meth, rot, pests, and wood-destroying organisms.
The exterior storm shelter was dry at the time of the inspection.
Seal and monitor brick and/or mortar cracks to prevent moisture intrusion.
Inadequate clearance between siding and ground. Recommend a minimum ground clearance between bottom of siding and ground of 4". Siding in contact with the ground or soil can provide direct access for wood destroying insects.
There is wood rot that should be repaired to prevent further damage and deterioration.
Cracks observed at the walkway. Seal and monitor to prevent further damage. Bigger cracks or settling could cause a tripping hazard.
The home interior showed minor general wear and deterioration commensurate with its age.
Door doesn't latch properly.
One or more windows have broken glass.
Tile and/or grout have damage/deterioration. This can potentially allow moisture intrusion.
Typical Life Expectancy: 12-15 Years
Inspection of home cooling systems typically includes visual examination of readily observable components for adequate condition, and system testing for proper operation using normal controls. Cooling system inspection will not be as comprehensive as that performed by a qualified heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC) system contractor. Report comments are limited to identification of common requirements and deficiencies. Observed indications that further evaluation is needed will result in referral to a qualified HVAC contractor.
The air conditioning system was a split system in which the cabinet housing the compressor, cooling fan and condensing coils was located physically apart from the evaporator coils. As is typical with split systems, the compressor/condenser cabinet was located at the home's exterior so that the heat collected inside the home could be released to the outside air. Evaporator coils designed to collect heat from the home interior were located inside a duct at the furnace and were not directly visible.
Inspection of heating systems is limited to basic evaluation based on visual examination and operation using normal controls. Report comments are limited to identification of common requirements and deficiencies. Observed indications that further evaluation is needed will result in referral to a qualified heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC) contractor.
Inspection of heating systems typically includes:
- system operation: confirmation of adequate response to the thermostat
- proper location
- proper system configuration
- component condition
- exterior cabinet condition
- fuel supply configuration and condition
- combustion exhaust venting
- air distribution components
- proper condensation discharge
- temperature/pressure relief valve and discharge pipe: presence, condition, and configuration
Inspection of the furnace typically includes examination/operation of the following:
- cabinet exterior
- fuel supply and shut-off (not tested)
- electrical shut-off
- adequate combustion air
- proper ignition
- burn chamber conditions (when visible)
- exhaust venting
- air filter and blower
- plenum and ducts
- response to the thermostat
- return air system
- condensate drain components (where applicable)
Typical Life Expectancy:
Conventional/Mid Efficiency: 18-25 Years
High Efficiency: 10-15 Years
Refrigerant line insulation is missing and/or damaged. Missing or damaged insulation on refrigerant lines can cause energy loss and condensation buildup - leading to moisture intrusion. Recommend repair area of concern by owner or hvac contractor.
The estimated useful life for air conditioning condenser is 10 to 15 years. This unit appears to have exceeded this age and may need replacing at any time. It is recommended to have a Licensed HVAC technician complete a more invasive inspection.
This unit uses R-22 refrigerant. This is an outdated type of refrigerant. Maintenance may be more expensive.
Condenser coil fins are damaged and/or dirty.
Air conditioning equipment should not be operated when outdoor temperatures are below 65 degrees within the past or future 24 hours. We recommend having the air conditioning system evaluated by a licensed HVAC professional when the temperatures are warm enough to do so. Some HVAC technicians have special equipment for testing A/C systems during cold weather.
One or more celing fans are wobbling. This could be result of warped or sagging blades, and/or incorrect installation.
An HVAC system produces condensation as it works to cool, dehumidify and heat a home. This excess condensate is usually drained safely away, but naturally-occurring debris like dust and rust can sometimes cause the drain to become slow or clogged, creating leakage. Considering that one HVAC unit can turn as much as 20 gallons of humidity into condensate per day, it is easy to imagine how much damage can occur if that water is not draining properly.
A float switch is an inexpensive device designed to detect when the unit is leaking and prevent significant damage by shutting it off.
As its name suggests, a float switch is turned on (activated) when the water level in an HVAC's safety drip pan or condensate line rises past a certain point and the mechanism of the switch begins to float. The switch then sends a signal to the HVAC unit, shutting it off to halt the phase conversion process and stop the production of excess condensation. At that time, the cause of the leak can be repaired before any water damage is able to occur.
Where is a float switch installed?
Horizontal HVAC units are often equipped with a drip pan, which is placed underneath the unit to prevent small amounts of excess condensate water from causing damage. However, in the event of a major leak, a drip pan can only hold so much before it overflows. A float switch installed on the drip pan could prevent such a situation from causing major damage.
For a vertical HVAC unit or horizontal unit without a drip pan, a float switch can be installed on the unit's PVC drain pipe and will activate if water flow is obstructed. An HVAC unit may also come equipped with a condensate pump, which actively pumps excess condensation away from the unit instead of passively relying on gravity to drain it away. Such a pump also includes a float switch-like mechanism which works in the same way, disabling the HVAC unit and preventing the occurrence of major water damage.
No matter where your HVAC unit is located, it's important to install a float switch or, if appropriate for your unit, a condensate pump. An overflow on the top level of your home could cause significant damage to the floors below and result in microbial growth, mold and hazardous living conditions. However, ground floor unit leaks can easily cause a great deal of damage as well.
What is the cost of a float switch?
Float switches are inexpensive to add to your HVAC system. The part itself typically costs less than $50, and your HVAC professional should be able to install it in under a half hour. Your HVAC professional can also determine whether your unit could benefit from a condensate pump.
The estimated useful life for a furnace is 15 to 20 years. This unit appears to have exceeded this age and may need replacing at any time. It is recommended to have a Licensed HVAC technician complete a more invasive inspection.
The wood-burning fireplace should be inspected and cleaned prior to burning solid fuel initially and annually. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommends that chimneys burning solid fuelwood, coal, or pelletsbe inspected yearly and cleaned as often as needed. Such upkeep helps to ensure structural integrity, identify defects that might allow deadly combustion gases to vent into living spaces, and prevent chimney fires caused by the buildup of creosote, a natural byproduct of burning wood.
R-VALUE BY TYPE
The resistance to heat moving through insulation is measured as "R-value", the higher the R-value, the greater the resistance to heat flow through the insulation.
Any estimates of insulation R values or depths are rough average values. Insulation/ventilation type and levels in concealed areas, like exterior walls, are not inspected. Insulation and vapor barriers are not disturbed and no destructive tests (such as cutting openings in walls to look for insulation) are performed.
Attic ventilation disclaimer
The Inspector disclaims confirmation of adequate attic ventilation year-round performance, but will comment on the apparent adequacy of the system as experienced by the inspector on the day of the inspection. Attic ventilation is not an exact science and a standard ventilation approach that works well in one type of climate zone may not work well in another. The performance of a standard attic ventilation design system can vary even with different homesite locations and conditions or weather conditions within a single climate zone.
The typical approach is to thermally isolate the attic space from the living space by installing some type of thermal insulation on the attic floor. Heat that is radiated into the attic from sunlight shining on the roof is then removed using devices that allow natural air movement to carry hot air to the home exterior. This reduces summer cooling costs and increases comfort levels, and can help prevent roof problems that can develop during the winter such as the forming of ice dams along the roof eves.
Natural air movement is introduced by providing air intake vents low in the attic space and exhaust vents high in the attic space. Thermal buoyancy (the tendency of hot air to rise) causes cool air to flow into the attic to replace hot air flowing out the exhaust vents. Conditions that block ventilation devices, or systems and devices that are poorly designed or installed can reduce the system performance.
Recommend repairing to protect the integrity of the roof structure.
There is an unknown white powder
substance in the attic, without laboratory testing the inspector can not 100% verify chemical makeup and any known health risks. The inspector's professional opinion is that the powder is likely insecticide and more specifically diatomaceous earth. Please visit link for more information. http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/de.html
Adjustment is needed at the attic-access pull-down ladder to facilitate personal safety.
Insulation depth was inadequate. To maximize savings on heating and cooling costs, insulation levels should comply with local energy codes. Current standard is R-40. We recommend a qualified attic insulation contractor install additional insulation.
Exhuast should vent to the exterior to prevent excessive moisture, mold and damage to the homes structure.
Inspection of the garage typically includes examination of the following:
- general structure
- floor, wall and ceiling surfaces
- operation of all accessible conventional doors and door hardware
- overhead door condition and operation including manual and automatic safety component operation and switch placement
- proper electrical condition including Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection
- interior and exterior lighting
- stairs and stairways
- proper firewall separation from living space
- proper floor drainage
Inspection of overhead garage doors typically includes examination for presence, serviceable condition and proper operation of the following components:
- door condition
- mounting brackets
- automatic opener
- automatic reverse
- photo sensor
- switch placement
- track & rollers
- manual disconnect
Garage door panel is damaged.
We observed curing cracks at the garage floor.
Door separating garage and home does not meet safety standards. Doors in firewalls must be at least 1 3/8-inch thick, metal/steel, or a 20-minute fire-rated door.
Occupant doors that lead from garage to living space should be self closing to add an extra layer of safety in the event of an fire. Recommend installing a self closing device to existing door and/or installation of a new door with self closing capabilities.
Home branch circuit wiring consists of wiring distributing electricity to devices such as switches, receptacles, and appliances. Most conductors are hidden behind floor, wall and ceiling coverings and cannot be evaluated by the inspector. The Inspector does not remove cover plates and inspection of branch wiring is limited to proper response to testing of switches and a representative number of electrical receptacles.
Switches are sometimes connected to fixtures that require specialized conditions, such as darkness or movement, to respond. Sometimes they are connected to electrical receptacles (and sometimes only the top or bottom half of an receptacle). Often, outlets are inaccessible due to furniture or other obstructions. This being said, functionality of all switches in the home may not be confirmed by the inspector.
Light fixture did not respond to the switch. The bulb may need to be replaced or there may be a problem with the switch, wiring or light fixture.
The inspector was unable to determine what device is controlled by a switch.
An electrical receptacle is damaged.
An electrical receptacle had an open ground. Other receptacles in the home were grounded.
For GFCI's with open ground, they need a sticker that reads "no equipment ground".
An electrical receptacle had hot and neutral wires reversed.
An electrical receptacle exhibited visible scorching. This condition is a potential fire hazard and should be investigated and any repairs made by a licensed electrician.
Excessive sheathing removed at branch wiring circuits or service entrance cables. This is a safety hazard. Recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrician.
There were lug(s) on the neutral/ground bus bar that have more than one neutral wire connected to them. Each neutral wire should be attached to a separate lug to ensure a proper physical connection and to make sure that each circuit can be worked on independently. Recommend to have this corrected.
No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection of home electrical receptacles was provided at one or more locations in the home at the time of inspection. Although GFCI protection may not have been required at the time the home was built, for safety reasons, the Inspector recommends that electrical receptacles located in basements, crawlspaces, garages, the home exterior, and interior receptacles located within 6 feet of a plumbing fixture be provided with ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection in good working order to avoid potential electric shock or electrocution hazards. This can be achieved relatively inexpensively by:
1. Replacing an individual standard receptacle with a GFCI receptacle.
2. Replacing the electrical circuit receptacle located closest to the overcurrent protection device (usually a breaker) with a GFCI receptacle.
3. Replacing the breaker currently protecting the electrical circuit that contains the receptacles of concern with a GFCI breaker.
We recommend carbon monoxide detectors are installed in the home and maintained according to manufacturer's instructions.
We recommend having smoke detectors in the home: (1) In all sleeping rooms, (2) Hallways outside of sleeping areas in immediate vicinity of the sleeping rooms. (3) On each level of the dwelling unit including basements. (4) If separated by a door, we also recommend having smoke detectors in the dining room, furnace room, utility room, and hallways not protected by the required Smoke Alarms. The installation of Smoke Alarms in kitchens, unfinished attics, or garages is not normally recommended, as these locations occasionally experience conditions that can result in improper operation. We recommend installing smoke detectors according to the manufacturers instructions as well as regularly testing and monitoring smoke detectors as their batteries need to be replaced and/or the smoke detectors expire and should be replaced periodically per the manufacturer's instructions.
Note: Appliances are operated at the discretion of the Inspector
The General Home Inspection testing of ovens does not include testing of all oven features, but is limited to confirmation of bake and broil features. You should ask the seller about the functionality of any other features.
The General Home Inspection testing of ovens does not include testing of all oven features, but is limited to confirmation of bake and broil features. You should ask the seller about the functionality of any other features.
At the time of the inspection, the garbage disposal vibrated excessively when operated.
There is no air gap or high loop in the discharge line from the dishwasher to the garbage disposal or drain. Implication: Grey water from the sink can back up into the dishwasher and can subsequently contaminate dishes and/or flood the floor.
Typical Life Expectancy:
Conventional: 8 to 12 Years
Tankless: 20 Years
Inspection of the plumbing system typically includes visual examination of:
- water supply pipes
- drain, waste and vent (DWV) system
- water heater (type, condition and operation)
- sewage disposal system (designation as public or private)
- gas system
- sump pump (confirmation of installation/operation)
Water temperature should be set to at least 120 degrees F to kill microbes and no higher than 130 degrees F to prevent scalding.
This was an electric water heater. This type of water heater uses electric elements to heat water in the tank. These elements can often be replaced when they burn out. With heaters having two heating elements, the lower element usually burns out first. Heating elements should be replaced only by qualified plumbing contractors or HVAC technicians.
Most drain, waste and vent pipes were not visible due to wall, ceiling and floor coverings.
Most water distribution pipes were not visible due to wall, floor and ceiling coverings. The Inspector disclaims responsibility for inspection of pipes not directly visible.
Fuel Storage & Distribution Systems not present.
One or more plumbing fixtures were damaged. Please see individual pictures and comments for further details.
Water flow does not completely divert to the shower head.
A plumbing fixtures leaks and should be repaired to prevent more severe conditions such as water damage.
Water heater is near the end of or past its lifespan. Monitor its effectiveness, and budget for replacing it in the near future.
No drip pan was present at the water heater.
The water heater drain pan had no overflow. To reduce the potential for damage from a leaking tank or pipe fittings, the drip pan should have an overflow pipe installed that discharges to the home exterior or to a floor drain. The Inspector recommends correction by a qualified plumbing contractor.