Your general home inspection is a non-invasive inspection of the general condition of the house systems and components at the time of inspection. Nothing is removed, disassembled, or moved during the general home inspection.  Working doors, windows and access hatches are opened, and normal operating controls are used to inspect the condition of systems.  Appliances are operated with normal operating controls; however, if any appliance, including heating, cooling and hot water systems are disconnected from a power source, the inspector will not connect that appliance for inspection and it will not be inspected.  Any electrical circuit breakers that are off at the time of inspection will not be turned on for the inspection, and anything served by that circuit will not be inspected.  The general home inspection is based on the observations made on the date of the inspection, and not a prediction of future conditions. The general home inspection will not reveal every issue that exists or ever could exist, but only those material defects observed on the date of the inspection.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

The roof was covered with laminated fiberglass composition asphalt shingles.  Laminated shingles are composted of multiple layers bonded together. Laminated shingles are also called "architectural" or "laminated" shingles. Composition shingles are composed of a fiberglass mat embedded in asphalt and covered with ceramic coated mineral granules.  Shingles with multiple layers bonded together are usually more durable than shingles composed of a single layer.  This type of shingle have an average expected life of thirty (30) years.

With any exceptions noted, the composition asphalt shingles observed on the roof of this house appeared to be in good condition with normal signs of aging and wear.  They appeared to be adequately protecting the underlying house structure at the time of inspection.  

Asphalt composition shingles have a total average life expectancy of thirty (30) years.  Asphalt composition shingles covering the roof of this house exhibited general deterioration commensurate with normal aging of the roof covering.  They appeared to be adequately protecting the underlying house structure at the time of inspection.  It is estimated that the remaining service life of the roof covering is ten (10) or more years.

The inspector does not hereby provide a certification, guarantee, or warranty as to roof condition or remaining life expectancy of the roof covering.  Any estimates made herein are based solely upon general observation at the time of inspection.  Estimated life and/or remaining life expectancy is given for information only, is not a certification, guarantee, or warranty.  For a certification of roof covering condition and remaining life expectancy, it is recommended that you contact a properly licensed, experienced roofing contractor for evaluation.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Upon moving into the house, it is recommended that a properly licensed, experienced technician or contractor evaluate the fireplace and/or wood stove and make recommendations for any needed cleaning, maintenance, or repairs.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:  A retaining wall is a structure that holds or retains earth behind it. It controls erosion of the soil and protects your house and/or property from soil/mud slides and sometimes flooding. There are many types of materials that can be used to create retaining walls; such as concrete blocks, poured concrete, treated timbers, rocks or boulders. While the type of retaining wall is not always obvious, and the home inspection does not endeavor to determine the type that may be present; below is brief information on some types of retaining walls:

• Gravity walls depend on their mass (stone, concrete or other heavy material) to resist pressure from behind and may have a "batter" setback to improve stability by leaning back toward the retained soil.
• Cantilevered retaining walls are made from an internal stem of steel-reinforced, cast-in-place concrete or mortared masonry (often in the shape of an inverted T). These walls cantilever loads (like a beam) to a large, structural footing, converting horizontal pressures from behind the wall to vertical pressures on the ground below. These walls require rigid concrete footings below seasonal frost depth. This type of wall uses much less material than a traditional gravity wall.
• Sheet pile retaining walls are usually used in soft soil and tight spaces. Sheet pile walls are made out of steel, vinyl or wood planks which are driven into the ground. Taller sheet pile walls will need a tie-back anchor, or "dead-man" placed in the soil a distance behind the face of the wall, that is tied to the wall, usually by a cable or a rod. Anchors are then placed behind the potential failure plane in the soil.
• Anchored retaining wall can be constructed in any of the aforementioned styles but also includes additional strength using cables or other stays anchored in the rock or soil behind it. While technically complex, this method is very useful where high loads are expected, or where the wall itself has to be slender and would otherwise be too weak.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Exterior Insulation Finish Systems (EIFS) Wall Construction (AKA: Stucco)

Building Science Corporation

NOVEMBER 15, 2014

This overview summarizes EIFS wall construction including the advantages and disadvantages of this construction strategy. Complex two dimensional heat flow analysis and one dimensional hygrothermal modeling were used to determine moisture related durability risks for analysis.

NOTE: Thickness of the EPS will need to be increased in very cold climates to control temperature of condensing surface.

Thermal Control

Installed insulation R-value: The framed portion of this wall assembly typically has an R-value of R-19-20 when insulated with fiberglass batt or cellulose. Exterior insulation for EIFS is typically EPS at R-4/inch.

Whole-wall R-value: Using two-dimensional heat flow analysis with thermal bridging effects and average framing factors demonstrates improvements in the efficiency of the fiberglass batt or cellulose in the stud space by decreasing the thermal bridging effects of the framing and the rim joist. Adding 4 of EPS insulation for a total increase of R-16 increases the clear-wall R-value of standard construction by slightly more than R-16 because of thermal bridging of the framing and rim joist. The whole-wall R-value for this system is approximately R-30.

Air Leakage Control: Fiberglass batt, blown and sprayed cellulose are all air permeable materials allowing possible air paths between the interior and exterior as well as convective looping through the material. The air tightness of an EIFS system is typically at the surface of the exterior sheathing (usually glass-faced exterior gypsum) because it is the water control layer.

Typical Insulation Products: EPS exterior insulation, fiberglass batt, blown cellulose, sprayed cellulose.

Durability

Rain Control: In the EIFS system, it is critical to correctly detail the water control layer to adequately handle rain. Historically, EIFS were constructed using a face-sealed approach, but this lead to many moisture related durability issues. EIFS can be used as part of a very durable and reliable enclosure system, provided it is drained and ventilated. Intersections, windows, doors and other penetrations must be detailed to prevent the penetration of rain water.1

Air Leakage Control: By adding exterior insulation as part of the EIFS construction, the temperature of the sheathing (condensation plane) increases, and the risk of air leakage condensation is reduced. It is always good practice to build airtight enclosure systems, often with both an interior and exterior air barrier to avoid air leakage condensation and wind-washing. Air leakage condensation is one of the greatest causes of premature building enclosure failure. An air barrier should be stiff, continuous, durable, strong, and impermeable.2

Air need not leak straight through an assembly to cause moisture problems; it can also leak from the inside, through the wall, and back to the inside. Condensation within the stud space is possible if this type of airflow occurs, depending on the weather conditions. Hence, wall designs should control airflow into the stud space.3

Vapor Control: By adding exterior insulation as part of the EIFS construction, the temperature of the sheathing (condensation plane) increases, and the risk of moisture vapor condensation is reduced. It may be possible to avoid the use of an interior vapor control layer, or use a higher permeance vapor control layer (Class II or III) depending on the amount of insulation on the exterior and regional building codes.  Installing the incorrect vapor control layer or installation in the incorrect location can lead to building enclosure failure.4

Drying: Insulating sheathing limits the drying to the exterior, and the wall must be able to dry to the interior. Poly vapor barriers are typically avoided so that this drying can occur. The minimum level of vapor control on the interior surface is determined by the IRC. Installing vapor control on both sides of the enclosure will seal any moisture into the stud space, resulting in low drying potential, and possibly resulting in moisture-related durability risks. Ventilation behind vapor impermeable claddings and interior components (e.g. kitchen cabinets) can encourage drying.

Built-in Moisture: Care should always be taken to build with dry materials where possible, and allow drying of wet materials before close in. Cellulose is often sprayed in damp, and manufacturers recommend drying before close in and moisture content limits.

Durability Summary: The primary durability risks associated with these wall assemblies involve moisture damage related to rain water penetration. Insulating sheathings keep the condensation plane temperature elevated so there is less risk of condensation due to air leakage or vapor diffusion. Framing members are also kept warmer so they are exposed to lower relative humidity levels and generally have lower equilibrium moisture contents. Board foam products are typically less moisture sensitive than wood-based structural sheathing products.

Cellulose insulated walls are somewhat more durable because cellulose insulation is capable of storing and redistributing small amounts of moisture. Cellulose insulation is typically treated with borates that have been argued to protect adjacent wood members from mold and decay.

Buildability

Exterior insulation up to 11/2 requires minimal changes to standard construction practices. Exterior insulation in excess of 11/2 requires minor changes to window and wall construction and detailing which requires training and monitoring during the initial implementation. The EIFS finish system is directly applied to the exterior foam, and requires skilled trades to install. Some EIFS companies produce detail drawings for their products to reduce the risk of construction issues resulting in premature enclosure failure. www.stocorp.com and www.dryvit .ca are two examples that provide detailed drawings on their websites.

Cost

There is an increased cost to EIFS wall construction because of the specialized stucco like finish. It is possible to add exterior insulation with a rain screen cladding as an alternative to the stucco appearance finish that may be more cost effective

Material Use

Typically, in EIFS construction, structural wood sheathing is exchanged for a more moisture tolerant sheathing such as glass mesh reinforced exterior gypsum board. The addition of EPS foam can usually be sourced locally, and has relatively low embodied energy relative to other board foam insulations.

Summary

This wall system is a durable and reliable choice regardless of the historical failures of this construction strategy. A better understanding of enclosure design and building science with drained and ventilated claddings and better design details have nearly eliminated the historical moisture related issues. This wall system has the appearance of a stucco finish, but with significant energy improvements, which is often the reason for using this construction strategy. It is possible to use exterior insulation with many different cladding options if a stucco appearance is not the desired architectural result.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

ABOUT EAVES, SOFFITS & FASCIA:  The eaves are the edges of the roof that overhang the face of a wall and, normally, project beyond the side of a building. The eaves form an overhang to direct water clear of the walls and may be decorated, or the ends left exposed as part of an architectural style. Soffits are actually eaves that have been "boxed" in so that the rafters are not seen. 

Hip roofs have a continuous eave that extends completely around the building. A gable roof has an eave along the side walls, formed at the rafter ends. Most gable roofs also have a rake eave, or rake extension formed on the gable ends. This is created by extending the rafters out past the building ends. Not only does the eave add to the appearance of the home, it also helps protect the building from sun, rain and snow. 

The rafter tails, or ends are finished with a fascia board that helps protect the rafters from water penetration, which will lead to wood rot.  Fascia boards must be monitored and maintained so that water does not penetrate the wood and cause wood rot. Fascia boards are vulnerable to leaking rain gutters and at the corners, where often, the cut ends were not painted or sealed to keep out moisture, and in either instance, wood rot will set in.  With the exception of intentionally exposed rafter tails as part of an architectural feature, fascia boards should always be installed.

In many instances the eaves of todays houses are finished off with a soffit - the covering on the underside of the overhang. Older houses often have an open eave, with the rafters adding to the decor. Some houses, such as might be seen on a Craftsman-style, have exposed rafter tails, or ends.  Exposed rafter tails must be monitored and maintained yearly to prevent rain water penetration of the wood, which causes wood rot.

Soffits must be designed and installed properly. One of the most important factors is proper ventilation. If soffits are not ventilated, they can cause the formation of ice dams at the eaves. As the attic warms from the house heat, it allows the roof surface to melt snow, or ice, which then runs down into the colder eave surfaces and freezes back again. This creates an ice dam that allows water to work its way back into the walls and ceilings of the house. Venting both the attic with eave vents and the soffit with vent systems increases air circulation and prevents this problem. Ventilation not only prevents ice dams, but helps reduce heat build-up in the summer.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Pacific Power:  1-888-221-7070;  https://www.pacificpower.net/res/moving-center.html

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Here is a link to an article with useful information about the electrical load on houses:  Understanding Home Electrical Loads

Here is a link to an article with useful information about the electrical load on houses:  Understanding Home Electrical Loads

Currently, in California, smoke alarms are required to be installed on each floor, in each sleeping room and in the immediate vicinity outside of the bedrooms (i.e. a hallway). Proper smoke alarm placement also depends on local ordinance. [Calif. Building Code R314.3] However, currently, in California, operable hardwired and battery-operated smoke alarms that were approved and listed when they were installed don't need to be replaced immediately. [Health & S C 13113.7(a)(4); 13113.7(d)(3)]

Smoke detectors, as observed, may or may not not meet current California requirements and/or standards. The smoke detectors, as observed, did appear to meet California requirements and/or standards that were in place at the time of construction. 

It is easy to bring a house up to current California requirement for smoke detectors, as battery powered (as approved by California State Fire Marshall) units are allowed for older construction, and do not have to be hard-wired.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: 

A part of all residential properties: Smoke alarms approved by the State Fire Marshal are required to be placed in all residential properties in California. The State Fire Marshal lists all approved smoke alarms. [Calif. Health & Safety Code 13113.7] Beginning July 1, 2014, the State Fire Marshal required all battery-operated smoke alarms to contain a non-replaceable battery that lasts at least ten years. [Health & S C 13114(b)]

Beginning January 1, 2015, the State Fire Marshal required all smoke alarms (battery-powered, or powered by electricity) to:

• display the date of manufacture;
• provide a place where the date of installation can be written; and
• incorporate a hush feature.

Operable hardwired and battery-operated smoke alarms that were approved and listed when they were installed dont need to be replaced immediately. [Health & S C 13113.7(a)(4); 13113.7(d)(3)]

Note Local ordinance may require replacement sooner. [Health & S C 13113.7(a)(4)]

When an existing smoke alarm no longer works, the replacement smoke alarm is to meet all new requirements.

Smoke alarms are not required if a State Fire Marshal-approved fire alarm system with smoke detectors is installed on the property. An existing fire sprinkler system no longer exempts a residential property owner from smoke alarm installation requirements. [Health & S C 13113.7(a)(5)]

Violations of smoke alarm rules incur a maximum fine of $200 for each offense. [Health & S C 13113.7(e)]

Enforcement on a transfer of a single family residence: Enforcement of smoke alarm rules is also triggered on the transfer of a single family residence (SFR). Sellers certify the property is in compliance with smoke alarm rules on the Transfer Disclosure Statement (TDS). The certification TDS is handed to the buyer as soon as practicable (ASAP) before the seller enters into a purchase agreement or counteroffer. [Health & S C 13113.8(b)-(c)]

Smoke alarm rules for rentals: Owners of multi-unit residential property or a single family residence (SFR) rental property are required to install, maintain and test smoke alarms on their property. [Health & S C 13113.7(d)(2)] Owners (or property managers, as owners agents) are required to ensure smoke alarms are operable when a new tenancy is created. [Health & S C 13113.7(d)(2)(B)] However, tenants are responsible for notifying the owner or property manager if the smoke alarm becomes inoperable. The owner is not in violation of smoke alarm requirements if they are unaware of a malfunction in the smoke alarm after the tenant is given possession. [Health & S C 13113.7(d)(2)(B)] Additionally, owners of any residential rental property are to install additional smoke alarms to ensure devices are located in accordance with current local building standards. [Health & S C 13113.7(d)(3)] 

In California, smoke alarms are to be installed on each floor, in each sleeping room and in the immediate vicinity outside of the bedrooms (i.e. a hallway). Proper smoke alarm placement also depends on local ordinance. [Calif. Building Code R314.3] Smoke detector laws dont mandate the frequency of owner inspections. However, landlords have a duty to inspect the premises upon entry for any purpose. Inspections need not be exhaustive, but landlords are liable for any dangerous condition that is observable by a reasonable person. [Mora v. Baker Commodities, Inc. (1989) 210 CA3d 771]
Thus, if a smoke alarm defect can be reasonably ascertained visually during a landlords visit to the unit, the landlord needs to repair or replace the device.

All smoke detectors should be checked for adequate number and placement, and should be tested for proper operation upon moving into the house.

See Additional Documents for more information about smoke detectors/alarms.

Carbon monoxide detectors, as observed, may or may not not meet current California requirements and/or standards. 

OVERVIEW:  As of July 1, 2011, the Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Prevention Act (Senate BillSB 183) requires all single-family homes with an attached garage, appliances using fossil fuel energy source, or wood fuel source, to install carbon monoxide alarms within the home.

Please see California Carbon Monoxide Requirement FAQ attached to the report.

Carbon monoxide detectors are required when any liquid (gas, diesel, kerosene, etc.) or solid fuel (wood, wood pellets, etc.) appliances, fireplaces, or stoves are used for the house.  Existing carbon monoxide detectors, if any, should be tested for proper operation upon moving into the house.

See Additional Documents for more information about carbon monoxide detectors/alarms.

I recommend flushing & servicing your water heater tank annually for optimal performance. Water temperature should be set to at least 120 degrees F to kill microbes and no higher than 130 degrees F to prevent scalding. 

Here is a nice maintenance guide from Lowe's to help. 

If present, our house is equipped with a sewer pumping system.  This system is needed to pump wastewater to the sewer service provider's main pipe. This system requires routine monitoring and maintenance.

If present, your house is equipped with a sump pump system.  This system is needed to pump water from your basement or crawlspace to the either the sewer service provider's main pipe, or to a water drain system. This system requires routine monitoring and maintenance.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Recommend service by qualified technician/chimney sweep for cleaning, maintenance and any necessary repairs prior to use, and once each year before cold season.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

An area was observed in the ceiling at the hallway that appeared to be minor damage that has been repaired. No signs of moisture or other structural issues were observed. 

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.

Based on observation made at time of inspection, with any maintenance, deficient, or safety conditions noted.