Furnishings and items belonging to an occupant or owner may conceal defects and prevent inspection of portions of the home or testing of systems. Pay close attention during your final walkthrough. 

A condominium inspection is typically limited to the home interior. Exceptions would include safety hazards identified when approaching the condominium, balcony, decks or patios that are accessed directly from the condominium will be included also but the seller may, or may not be responsible for the condition of outside appurtenances. The inspector will try to identify any problems in the condo that is related to some defect on the exterior such as roof or window leakage but would not necessarily determine the cause.

Thank you for choosing 1st American Home Inspections, LLC for your Home Inspection!

The inspection performed to provide data for this report was visual in nature only, and non-invasive. The purpose of this report is to reflect as accurately as possible the visible condition of the home at the time of the inspection. This inspection is not a guarantee or warranty of any kind, but is an inspection for system and major accessible component defects and safety hazards.

The Inspection is not Pass/Fail

A property does not "Pass" or "Fail" a General Home inspection. Please feel free to contact me with any questions about either the report or the property. The goal of this inspectionreport is not to make a purchase recommendation, but to provide you with useful, accurate information that will be helpful in making an informed purchase decision.

Read the Report

Please read your entire inspection report carefully. Although the report has a summary that lists the most important considerations, the body of the report also contains important information. There is important information about home maintenance, materials used in the construction of this home, and appliance use and maintenance that should be read to gain an understanding of how to care for your home.

Using the Summary

The summary is meant to organize the defects or important repairs needed in the home. Most anything can be repaired in a home, although some repairs can be very expensive to complete. Generally, normal maintenance issues are left out of the summary unless they would lead to water leaks or expensive repairs if not completed in a timely way. Most roof maintenance issues will be included in the summary because of the severe damage that may be caused by the neglect of roof maintenance.

Repairs, Evaluations and Corrections

For your protection, and that of others, all repairs, corrections, or specialist evaluations should be performed by qualified contractors or licensed professionals. Safety hazards or poorly performed work can continue to be a problem, or even be made worse when home sellers try to save money by hiring inexpensive, unqualified workmen, or by doing work themselves.

Recommended Contractors

Any contractor recommendations are made for my client's or their agent's convenience. I do not accept kickbacks or referral fees from any contractors, EVER.

Do a Final Walk-Through

Because conditions can change very quickly, we recommend that you or your representative perform a final walk-through inspection immediately before closing to check the condition of the property, using this report as a guide.

We're Here to Help!

If you have questions about either the contents of this report, or about the home,please don't hesitate to contact us for help, no matter how much time has passed since your home inspection. We'll be happy to answer your questions to the best of our ability.

Notice to Third Parties

This Report is the joint property of 1st American Home Inspections, LLC and the Client(s) listed above. Unauthorized transfer to any third parties or subsequent buyers is not permitted. This report and supporting inspection were performed according to a written contract agreement that limits its scope and the manner in which it may be used. Unauthorized recipients are advised to not rely upon the contents of this report but instead to retain the services of the qualified home inspector of their choice to provide them with an updated report.

Explanation of Ratings

I = Inspected. This means the system or component was inspected and found to be functioning properly, or in acceptable condition at the time of the inspection. No further comment is necessary but whenever possible additional information about materials used in the construction and how to care for or maintain the home

NI = Not Inspected. This indicates that at least part of a system or component could not be inspected or inspected as thoroughly as I would like. This would rarely mean that the system or component could not be inspected at all. This amounts to a limitation and will include an explanation.

NP = Not Present. This indicates that a system or component was not present at the time of inspection. If the system or component should have been present, a comment will follow.

O = Observation. This indicates that an action is recommended. Observations are color coded to indicate the importance of the observation.

• Blue - Means maintenance should be performed. This falls short of being an actual defect and will not be included in the report summary.
• Orange - Means that a system or component should be repaired or replaced.
• Red - Means that a correction or repair is needed to eliminate a potential health or safety hazard.

Viewing the summary may be a more efficient use of your time! You can click the summary button under my name and license # for viewing online or on the right side is the PDF button that allow you to view or print the summary only. On the top edge is the "Agent Tools" button that opens a window you can easily copy/paste from.

Watch this 3 minute video to get the most out of the Report Tools for agent!

Thank you for all the hard work that you put into this transaction!

Henry "Sonny' Toman

The amount of insulation used in a home will determine how much energy is wasted heating and cooling the home. Proper insulation techniques allow for adequate ventilation and reduce accumulations of excess moisture in the air. A lack of adequate insulation will cause higher heating and cooling costs and can make the occupants uncomfortable during extreme weather conditions. Improper insulation techniques can cause excess moisture to collect and cause water damage and possibly mold growth. Newer homes are usually better insulated and more energy efficient than older homes. Newer homes are also "tighter" and allow less air flow or fewer "air changes" per hour. This sometimes makes newer homes more susceptible to mold growth. Insulation in the walls cannot be visually inspected.

Kitchens are often ventilated by an over the stove exhaust hood / fan or built in microwave exhaust fan or window. Ventilation is a means of removing heat, steam and odors produced by cooking in a kitchen. Cooking can increase the relative humidity in the home, which in turn can create condensation on cooler surfaces and contribute to moisture related problems such as mold. Inhalation of cooking fumes can have a negative impact on your health.

Learn more about health effects of cooking fumes

Settlement cracks and nail pops are normal signs of aging in a home. As moisture content in the air changes from season to season, the building materials in the home expand and contract. This will cause small cracks and nail pops in the ceiling that will require normal maintenance. Just as we develop wrinkles with age, so will any home.

Water stains and evidence of prior repairs are very commonly found in existing (not new construction) homes. Unless the area is wet it may be impossible to determine whether the problem has been resolved. Because water flows downhill, it may not be possible to determine the source of the water stain. The purpose of this comment is to explain that some water stains are not always explainable.

Floors in older homes are often irregular and squeaky. This may or may not indicate a structural problem.

Almost every month, on average, a child dies from window cord strangulation, according the the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Any long, knotted cords that are potentially within the reach of small children should be removed to prevent strangulation and possibly brain damage or death.

This is a summary of the new smoke alarm law as I understand it:

1. Replace battery-only operated smoke alarms with units powered by sealed in, ten-year/long-life batteries with a silence/hush feature. Do Not replace a hardwired smoke alarm with a battery only smoke alarm.

2. Upgrade smoke alarm placement in existing residential occupancies to comply with minimum specified standards. These standards vary according to when the building was constructed. The deadline for compliance with the new law is January 1, 2018.

3. Replace smoke alarms when they are 10 years old.

The inspection of appliances is not required by the State of Maryland Standards of Practice but we try to confirm safety and basic functionality.

Some appliances may not "convey" or be included with the home. This should be spelled out in your contract. Typically appliances that are permanently installed and directly wired to the electrical or plumbing system may be considered as "fixtures". Your home inspector doesn't determine what should be included with the sale of the home. If you are not certain about what is include or "conveys" check the contract or ask your agent.

An owner's manual is very useful for learning how to operate an appliance, order parts and for general maintenance. If the owner's manual isn't provided by the seller it may be available online at the manufacturer's website. You would need the model number to select the correct manual.

The garbage disposal is mounted to the underside of a sink and is designed to store waste food in a hopper chamber (just beneath the sink drain and the upper part of the disposal). When turned on, the motor spins the flywheel and attached impellers at almost 2,000 RPM.

The attached impellers work to throw the waste food against the shredder ring and together they grind and pulverize the garbage. Water from the kitchen faucet flushes the pulverized waste material out the waste lineconnector discharge outlet and down the sewer system, or in some cases, into the septic system. (NOTE: Disposal usage may have some limitations with septic systems in some municipalities. Check with your local building code official.)

Your garbage disposal is different from your actual garbage can. Not all food scraps and liquids are meant to be poured into your disposal. Your should NEVER POUR GREASE down your sink drain or into a disposal.

To learn more

Dishwashers are used to clean dishes and some work better than others. Your home inspector doesn't determine whether the dishwasher will do a good job, just whether it is functional when inspected. Most dishwashers don't actually sanitize dishes the just wash them. Higher temperatures are required to sanitize your dishes and dishwashers will typically just wash them. Not everything can be cleaned in a dishwasher and dishwashers with exposed heating elements may melt some things. Dishwashers drain into the disposal or directly into a drain. Either way food that isn't dissolved by the dishwasher can clog the dishwasher discharge hose or drain. Bones and small pieces of hard items that won't be dissolved should not be put into a dishwasher.

A free standing electric range, often referred to as a stove, includes heating elements on the top usually referred to as burners and an oven. Electric ranges use heating elements to cook and are controlled thermostatically by use of knobs or digital control panels. Some are basic and others are more complex. It should be understood that when the heating element is on it will get red hot. Temperature is controlled by the heating element "cycling" on and off. The hotter the temperature that you choose the longer the element will stay on to achieve the desired temperature. This is true of the cook top burners or oven elements. Some ovens will have a "Self Cleaning" feature that locks the oven door to prevent accidental injury as it gets very hot. It is important to understand how the manufacturer intends the oven to be cleaned to prevent damaging the finish. Glass top ranges require special cleaning products avoid damaging the top.

If the owner's manual isn't provided by the seller, you can probably go to the manufacturer's website to download or print one.

Your home inspector doesn't determine if the range will cook well, only if it is functional or damaged. Oven temperatures may not be what the controls indicate and an oven thermometer can be useful as you "get to know" your oven.

The refrigerator and freezer use refrigerant to remove heat in almost the same way that an air conditioner does. And like an air conditioner it has coils that should be cleaned to maintain proper function, use energy as efficiently as possible, and extend the useful lifespan.

Refrigerators may stop working at any time and cause food spoilage. Having a cooler around to store food is a good way to prevent spoilage when the refrigerator does stop working. If you don't own a cooler, you'll need to decide if purchasing one is worth the expense compared to the cost of food replacement. Refrigerators often require delivery that may take several days. If the refrigerator will need to be taken up stairs the deliverer should be informed at the time of purchase.

An ice maker requires a water supply and sometimes has a filter that will need to be replaced regularly to prevent bacteria buildup. The water supply may leak if the refrigerator is moved or pulled out for cleaning. It is a good idea to know the location of the shut off for the water supply when one exists.

An owner's manual is useful for replacing parts and understanding maintenance requirements. If the seller doesn't provide an owner's manual it may be available at the manufacturer's website for download or printing.

The dryer ventilation duct should be cleaned or replaced when you move in and cleaned or replaced annually to prevent lint buildup. Lint buildup will restrict airflow and causes over 20,000 house fires annually.

It is important to maintain easy access to the main service panel so that power can be turned off or back on in the event of an emergency.

As this is a condominium, the main electrical disconnect is outside of the unit at the electrical meter.

A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), is a device that shuts off an electric power circuit when it detects that current is flowing along an unintended path, such as through water or a person.

Underwriters Laboratory recommends testing the GFCI outlets monthly by pushing the test button.

The age of the appliance is determined by use of an online database and cannot be guaranteed by your inspector.

While electricity and natural gas are supplied directly from a utility, other fuels such as propane gas and heating oil require a scheduled delivery by an independent contractor. You should be careful to avoid running out of heating oil or propane in the during the winter months or you may experience frozen water pipes which may burst and cause a great deal of damage. Home owner's insurance typically won't cover damage caused by a failure to heat your home.

A package heating and cooling system has combined what it typically a split system. The indoor and outdoor units are all together in the same place. 

The home was heated and cooled by a heat pump.  A heat pump uses the same refrigerant to heat and cool a home by reversing the direction of the flow of refrigerant. This allows it to remove heat from the home interior to the exterior in the cooling season and remove heat from the exterior to the home interior during the heating season. If the outside temperatures drop too low, approximately 32 degrees depending on the equipment, the furnace will use supplemental resistant heat temporarily. Think of a blow dryer making warm air as an example of resistant heat. Your inspector recommends annual service for all heating and cooling equipment. This should allow the equipment to function more efficiently for longer when properly maintained.

*Life expectancy of this type of heating system ranges from 10-15. Your inspector can only observe the condition of the equipment on the day of the inspection and can't be sure of how well the equipment has been maintained unless it is in poor condition. If the system was cleaned just before the inspection it would appear to have been well maintained.

* These life expectancies have been determined through research and testing based on regular recommended maintenance and conditions of normal wear and tear, and not extreme weather (or other) conditions, neglect, over-use or abuse.Therefore, they should be used as guidelines only, and not relied upon as guarantees or warranties.

Furnace Air Filters should be checked monthly and replaced as needed. Failure to change the filter when needed may result in the following problems:

• Reduced blower life due to dirt build-up on vanes, which increasing operating costs.
• Reduced effectiveness of air filtration resulting in deterioration of indoor air quality.
• Increased resistance resulting in the filter being sucked into the blower. This condition can be a potential fire hazard.
• Frost build-up on air-conditioner evaporator coils, resulting in reduced cooling efficiency and possible damage.
• Reduced air flow through the home.
• Dirty filter cause dirty refrigerant coils which are the #1 cause of major repairs.

Once the temperature is set at the thermostat, cold air from the home is pulled into the system where it passes through the air filter, removing allergens like pollen and dust. It then blows the air through the air handler where it is warmed via the furnaces heat source and spread to the home through the ducts via the blower motor. 

Air filters should be checked monthly and replaced when dirty. Air filters trap dust, dirt and pollen that would otherwise collect on the refrigerant coils or be recirculated throughout the home. High quality air filters will trap smaller particles and improve the air quality as well as keep the coils cleaner. Dirty Refrigerant Coils are the #1 cause of major repairs such as failed compressors.

Knowledge about air duct cleaning is in its early stages, so a blanket recommendation cannot be offered as to whether you should have your air ducts in your home cleaned. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) urges you to read this document in it entirety as it provides important information on the subject.

Learn more

The air is being cooled adequately. The temperature was checked at the air handler.

Bathtubs and showers are a regular source of water leakage in residential homes. They have plumbing fixtures that require more piping than other fixtures. The piping will typically have more couplings or connectors which can leak on the supply side and the bathtub has an overflow that is likely to leak on older tubs. Because of the common leakage, difficulty in finding those leaks and possible damage done by water leakage, overflows are generally not tested. While an overflow is designed to prevent overflow of the bathtub, it would only work if the water was flowing very slowly. 

Maintaining the surround (walls around a tub or shower) is important because any gaps between wall tiles can allow water leakage. The gap between the tub or shower pan and the surround should be caulked and the caulk maintained to prevent leakage also. One piece shower surrounds are less likely to leak and require less maintenance.

Connections to sink drains and faucets are a common source of leakage in a home. Faucets require occasional maintenance to function properly. Faucets purchased at the big box stores are typically of a lower quality than faucets purchased at an actual plumbing supply house. Plumbing contractors will usually need to charge more for these fixtures and they expect them to last longer.

Toilets are a regular source of water leakage and damage to a home. Toilets require maintenance to prevent water leakage and water waste as well. When the flapper leaks, it can cause large water bills or even burn up a well pump. When a toilet becomes loose at the connection to the floor (closet flange) a slow leak of waste can develop and that often damages the structure or creates mold growth. Maintenance is much cheaper that the resulting repairs, especially if mold remediation is required.

Most tank-type water heaters last 10 to 20 years, with the average age of replacement between 12 and 14 years. But there are four variables that affect the lifespan:

1) Quality of manufacture - As your would expect, the premium-priced water heaters with the longer warranties and features like a porcelain-lined tank, larger heating elements, and better insulation will hold up longer.

2) Rate of usage - A 40-gallon water heater serving a family of six is not going to last as long as one serving an older couple with no children.

3) Installation - A homeowner or handyman installation can shorten the life of a water heater, especially a gas-fired one.

4) Maintenance - The simplest and easiest maintenance item is draining the water heater to flush out sediment accumulation at the bottom every two years, or sooner if you have a lot of sediment in the water.

Most water heaters fail by leaking and we recommend that you give it a careful examination twice a year, looking for any telltale small, rust-colored drip strains on the top or sides, and especially around pipe connections may be evidence of the beginning of tank failure. Some water heating fuels will allow the water heater to recover, or reheat the water water faster. This will vary by the efficiency of the model as well as fuel source.

This information is not meant to be any kind of warranty.

This was an electric water heater. This type of water heater uses electric elements to heat water in the tank. These elements can often be replaced when they burn out. With heaters having two heating elements, the lower element usually burns out first.