Sellers representative to open house, buyer at end for verbal summary.
Robert (Jeff) Woodman
Sellers representative to open house, buyer at end for verbal summary.
Occupied or furnished homes limit the view of or access to areas, systems and components. The inspector specifically disclaims responsibility for conditions missed during the inspection or discovered after contents are moved or removed from the home.
Any request for a return trip to inspect after contents are moved or removed will be subject to rescheduling and a return trip fee.
Detached buildings and structures are outside the scope of this inspection and were not inspected (see inspection agreement).
These can be added at an additional fee if requested. The customer did not request them to be inspected.
All Homes will have signs of age and wear that are representative of its age, this must be expected. This home is over 50 years old and the inspector considers this while inspecting. It is common to have areas that no longer comply with current code. This is not a new home and this home cannot be expected to meet current code standards. While this inspection makes every effort to point out safety issues, it does not inspect for code. It is common that homes of any age will have had repairs performed and some repairs may not be in a workmanlike manner. Some areas may appear less than standard. This inspection looks for items that are not functioning as intended. It does not grade the repair. It is common to see old plumbing or mixed materials. Sometimes water signs in crawlspaces or basements could be years old from a problem that no longer exists. Or, it may still need further attention and repair. Determining this can be difficult on an older home. The home inspection does not look for possible manufacturer recalls on components that could be in this home. Always consider hiring the appropriate expert for any repairs or further inspection.
1) Strong fumes in garage at gas appliances. Possible safety issue. Recommend further inspection by qualified HVAC specialist.
If any odors are noticed in the home I will include them in this section with recommendations made as needed. If no additional information is included in this report in respect to odors, then no discernible odors were present or noticed in the home at the time of inspection.
In accordance with the InterNACHI standards of practice and the Inspection Agreement, reporting on the presence of mold is excluded from a home inspection. If I see obvious signs of fungal growth, I will recommend further evaluation as a courtesy, but these individual references should not be construed as an all-inclusive list. Furthermore, the removal of personal belongings or any remodeling or repairs that may take place in the future may reveal fungal growth or mold that was not visible at the time of inspection. If mold is a concern, you are advised to have a full environmental inspection by an environmental contractor prior to the end of your inspection contingency period.
|2.3||Roof Drainage Systems||X||X|
|2.4||Skylights, Chimneys & Other Roof Penetrations||X|
|2.5||Roof Structure & Attic||X|
The roof was inspected by the methods listed. The inspection was not an exhaustive inspection of every installation detail of the roof system according to the manufacturer's specifications or construction codes. It is virtually impossible to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific water tests, which are beyond the scope of our inspection. We recommend that you ask the sellers to disclose information about the roof, and that you include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy.
In most cases, it is my preference to inspect the attic from the access opening(s). Most attics can effectively be inspected this way, however some areas may not be visible.
While not required, I will walk the attic when I feel the risk for property damage is low, there is adequate headroom, it will not cause the insulation to be compacted, or when there is an adequate travel path such as a boardwalk designed for this purpose.
Walking or crawling through the attic space can be unsafe and cause property damage, as well as compacting insulation which reduces it efficiency.
Click the Link for the InterNACHI Standards of Practice relative to this statement.
If you require a more comprehensive evaluation of the attic, I recommend hiring the appropriate specialist.
While it is outside the scope of a home inspection to determine the age of the roof covering or how much life remains, it is also one of the largest concerns a buyer has. I will attempt, if possible, to determine the approximate stage of life the roof covering is at the time of the inspection. Architectural shingles installed properly, with adequate attic ventilation may last up to 30 years, 3 Tab shingles 20 years. Additional layers last considerably less.
My chosen method is to estimate the life into 3 stages.
At all stages, monitoring the roofs condition is part of the required maintenance and due diligence of home ownership. Periodic repairs may be necessary. I recommend an annual roof inspection as part of this regular maintenance.
If more than one layer of shingles are present, I will not provide an age or life remaining estimate. Multiple layers reduce shingle life for multiple reasons.
(age estimate is either my opinion or an estimate based on condition, seller interviews or documentation but is in no way a guarantee. Further evaluation by a licensed roofing specialist recommended if you require a life remaining certification).
Your job as the homeowner is to monitor the roof covering because any roof can leak. To monitor a roof that is inaccessible or that cannot be walked on safely, use binoculars. Look for deteriorating or loosening of flashing, signs of damage to the roof covering and debris that can clog valleys and gutters.
Roofs are designed to be water-resistant. Roofs are not designed to be waterproof. Eventually, the roof system will leak. No one can predict when, where or how a roof will leak.
Every roof should be inspected every year as part of a homeowner's routine home maintenance plan. Catch problems before they become major defects.
Your job is to monitor the gutters and be sure that they function during and after a rainstorm. Look for loose parts, sagging gutter ends, and water leaks. The rain water should be diverted far away from the house foundation.
Limitations checked above indicate I was unable to inspect the roof by my normal method of walking it (which I feel is the most thorough) or that some of the roof covering was not visible due to limited access (steep) or visibility (snow).
I report on any defects observed during the inspection in this section but understand that the roof inspection was limited.
I recommend a more complete inspection of the roof be conducted by a licensed roofing professional.
I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or the eaves: A. the roof-covering materials; B. the gutters; C. the downspouts; D. the vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, and other roof penetrations; and E. the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of roof-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of active roof leaks. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. walk on any roof surface. B. predict the service life expectancy. C. inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. move insulation. F. inspect antennae, satellite dishes, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments. G. walk on any roof areas that appear, in the inspectors opinion, to be unsafe. H. walk on any roof areas if doing so might, in the inspector's opinion, cause damage. I. perform a water test. J. warrant or certify the roof. K. confirm proper fastening or installation of any roof-covering material.
There are no gutters present on the structure. Gutters are recommended because they collect rain water from the roof and direct it away from the building.
Consult with gutter professional for system design suggestions recommended.
Amateur installations often do not function properly and may even cause problems.
One or more downspouts drain too close to the home's foundation. This can result in excessive moisture in the soil at the foundation, which can lead to moisture intrusion into the crawlspace / basement and in worse case scenarios even foundation/structural movement. Recommend a qualified contractor adjust downspout extensions to drain 4-6 feet from the foundation.
Here is a helpful DIY link and video on draining water flow away from your house.
Clothes Dryers are a Common Source of House Fires
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. insulation in unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; B. ventilation of unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; and C. mechanical exhaust systems in the kitchen, bathrooms and laundry area. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of insulation observed; and B. the approximate average depth of insulation observed at the unfinished attic floor area or roof structure. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. the general absence of insulation or ventilation in unfinished spaces. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter the attic or any unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or, in the inspector's opinion, pose a safety hazard. B. move, touch or disturb insulation. C. move, touch or disturb vapor retarders. D. break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels or covers. E. identify the composition or R-value of insulation material. F. activate thermostatically operated fans. G. determine the types of materials used in insulation or wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers or wiring. H. determine the adequacy of ventilation.
Insulation depth was inadequate (less than R38). Recommend a qualified attic insulation contractor install additional insulation.
Attic insulation was improperly installed.
Vapor barrier must face "warm in winter" side (downwards). Moisture may be trapped between the vapor barrier and the ceiling.
Recommend a qualified insulation contractor evaluate and correct.
Knob and Tube Wiring exists in the attic and at least some of it appears to be covered in insulation. I recommend further inspection by a licensed Electrician. It is generally accepted that Knob and Tube Wiring should never be covered with insulation as it may overheat and become a fire hazard.
One or more foundation vents open at the time of the inspection. I recommend foundation vents be closed in the fall, after the first freeze and opened up again in the spring after the risk of freezing is over, this reduces the risk of water pipes freezing and reduces cold air influence in general. Opening them back up insures any moisture contained in the crawlspace gets evacuated by air movement.
A good rule of thumb is to close vents when the sprinkler system is blown out in the Fall and open them again in the Spring when the system is charged.
|4.2||Siding, Flashing & Trim||X||X|
|4.5||Walkways, Patios & Driveways||X|
|4.6||Decks, Balconies, Porches & Steps||X|
|4.7||Eaves, Soffits & Fascia||X|
|4.8||Vegetation, Grading, Drainage & Retaining Walls||X||X|
The exterior of your home is slowly deteriorating and aging. The sun, wind, rain and temperatures are constantly affecting it. Your job is to monitor the buildings exterior for its condition and weathertightness.
Check the condition of all exterior materials and look for developing patterns of damage or deterioration.
During a heavy rainstorm (without lightning), grab an umbrella and go outside. Walk around your house and look around at the roof and property. A rainstorm is the perfect time to see how the roof, downspouts and grading are performing. Observe the drainage patterns of your entire property, as well as the property of your neighbor. The ground around your house should slope away from all sides. Downspouts, surface gutters and drains should be directing water away from the foundation.
Driveway and/or walkways snow covered at the time of the inspection. Visibility was limited.
Concrete driveway, walkway and steps in condition consistent with the age of the home.
Surface deterioration and cracking exists. This is to be expected with a house of this age. Replacement or repair will be necessary to correct. Watch for trip hazards. Cracks may be able to be sealed as a short term solution.
The grounds were snow covered at the time of the inspection. Items not visible, or reduced visibility of include but may not be limited to; driveway and walkway surfaces, site grading and roof coverings.
Doorbell not present.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the exterior wall-covering materials, flashing and trim; B. all exterior doors; C. adjacent walkways and driveways; D. stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps; E. porches, patios, decks, balconies and carports; F. railings, guards and handrails; G. the eaves, soffits and fascia; H. a representative number of windows; and I. vegetation, surface drainage, retaining walls and grading of the property, where they may adversely affect the structure due to moisture intrusion. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of exterior wall-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. inspect items that are not visible or readily accessible from the ground, including window and door flashing. C. inspect or identify geological, geotechnical, hydrological or soil conditions. D. inspect recreational facilities or playground equipment. E. inspect seawalls, breakwalls or docks. F. inspect erosion-control or earth-stabilization measures. G. inspect for safety-type glass. H. inspect underground utilities. I. inspect underground items. J. inspect wells or springs. K. inspect solar, wind or geothermal systems. L. inspect swimming pools or spas. M. inspect wastewater treatment systems, septic systems or cesspools. N. inspect irrigation or sprinkler systems. O. inspect drainfields or dry wells. P. determine the integrity of multiple-pane window glazing or thermal window seals.
Composite wood siding showing signs of exposure related damage. Even when painted, composite wood siding in this condition may not provide adequate protection against further damage.
Some repairs likely will be necessary.
Further evaluation recommended.
Missing bulb at indicated location. Replace bulb, test fixture. Repair if needed.
Missing fixture at noted locations. Open electrical connections. Install by qualified electrician recommend.
Low areas present will hold water, possibly leading to moisture intrusion. Fill low areas and correct slope recommended.
Roof drains to foundation at indicated locations. Slope minimal or flat to slightly negative. Consider the professional installation of a gutter system that deposits water at least 3' away from foundation. Amateur installations often amplify or simply move the issue to another location.
|5.3||Walls & Firewalls||X||X|
|5.5||Garage Door Opener||X||X|
|5.6||Occupant Door (From garage to inside of home)||X||X|
Firewall separating the home and garage is not compliant with modern building standards. Firewalls should be built with materials to prevent the spreading of a fire into the home living space. Recommend a qualified contractor evaluate and bring firewall up to standards.
Garage door panel is damaged and may need repair/replacement. Recommend a qualified garage door contractor evaluate.
Overhead door failed to respond to the wall control. I recommend further inspection by a qualified garage door specialist.
Door separating garage and home does not meet safety standards. Doors in firewalls must be at least 1 3/8-inch thick, metal/steel, or a 20-minute fire-rated door.
One or more missing bulbs in the fixtures. It is outside the scope of this inspection to test whether or not there is power at these receptacles. I recommend replacing bulbs and testing for function. Repair if needed.
|6.1||Service Entrance Conductors||X|
|6.2||Main & Subpanels, Service & Grounding, Main Overcurrent Device||X||X|
|6.3||Branch Wiring Circuits, Breakers & Fuses||X||X|
|6.4||Lighting Fixtures, Switches & Receptacles||X||X|
|6.5||GFCI & AFCI||X|
|6.7||Carbon Monoxide Detectors||X||X|
It's your job to know where the main electrical panel is located, including the main service disconnect that turns everything off.
Be sure to test your GFCIs, AFCIs, and smoke detectors regularly. You can replace light bulbs, but more than that, you ought to hire an electrician. Electrical work is hazardous and mistakes can be fatal. Hire a professional whenever there's an electrical problem in your house.
Due to the age of the home there are no GFCI receptacles or GFCI protected circuits present in the home.
I recommend consulting with a licensed electrician regarding the installation of GFCI protection in this home.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the service drop; B. the overhead service conductors and attachment point; C. the service head, gooseneck and drip loops; D. the service mast, service conduit and raceway; E. the electric meter and base; F. service-entrance conductors; G. the main service disconnect; H. panelboards and over-current protection devices (circuit breakers and fuses); I. service grounding and bonding; J. a representative number of switches, lighting fixtures and receptacles, including receptacles observed and deemed to be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)-protected using the AFCI test button, where possible; K. all ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacles and circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs using a GFCI tester, where possible; and L. smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the main service disconnect's amperage rating, if labeled; and B. the type of wiring observed. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the integrity of the serviceentrance conductors insulation, drip loop, and vertical clearances from grade and roofs; B. any unused circuit-breaker panel opening that was not filled; C. the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch-circuit wiring, if readily visible; D. any tested receptacle in which power was not present, polarity was incorrect, the cover was not in place, the GFCI devices were not properly installed or did not operate properly, evidence of arcing or excessive heat, and where the receptacle was not grounded or was not secured to the wall; and E. the absence of smoke detectors. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. insert any tool, probe or device into the main panelboard, sub-panels, distribution panelboards, or electrical fixtures. B. operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. remove panelboard cabinet covers or dead fronts. D. operate or re-set over-current protection devices or overload devices. E. operate or test smoke or carbon-monoxide detectors or alarms F. inspect, operate or test any security, fire or alarms systems or components, or other warning or signaling systems. G. measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service equipment, if not visibly labeled. H. inspect ancillary wiring or remote-control devices. I. activate any electrical systems or branch circuits that are not energized. J. inspect low-voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring, or any timecontrolled devices. K. verify the service ground. L. inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including, but not limited to: generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. M. inspect spark or lightning arrestors. N. inspect or test de-icing equipment. O. conduct voltage-drop calculations. P. determine the accuracy of labeling. Q. inspect exterior lighting.
A fuse panel exists at the property which is still occasionally found in old homes. Fuse panels are not inherently dangerous and when properly wired, fuse panels are just as safe as breaker panels.
The problems associated with fuse panels include but are not limited to:
Because of all the problems that can be found with fuse panels, insurance companies will often charge a premium for homes with fused services, or they'll refuse to insure the home. If you're buying a home with a fused electric service, you would do well to have the service upgraded. A typical service upgrade from a fuse panel to a breaker panel will be in the $1500 - $2000 range. The price will continue to go up if new circuits are added to the home, or other wiring upgrades are performed.
Buyer should be aware the electrical service is only 60 Amps. This is commonly considered to be inadequate with 100 Amp Service generally considered to be the minimum.
Many insurance companies have decided that 60-amp service is not as safe as 100-amp service, and they often wont insure a property with a 60-amp panel.
Service may need to be upgraded if additional systems such as AC are desired.
I recommend consulting with a licensed electrical contractor for service upgrade pricing.
One or more breakers, main lugs or bus bars have more than one wire under a lug designed to carry only one wire. This may not insure a good connection.
This is known as a "double tap".
This is an indication the work was not done by a licensed electrician and is a safety hazard. I recommend a licensed electrician further evaluate this panel.
There are one or more wires in this panel that appear to be connected to an oversized breaker. The correct size breaker for the wire gauge is critical to insure the breaker will trip before the wire overheats (fire hazard). I recommend this be further inspected by a licensed electrician.
Unsafe electrical connections present. Connections must take place in a properly rated box with an attached cover. Open splices or devices / junction boxes without covers are a safety / fire hazard. Observations made by the inspector do not indicate a complete repair list, only a representative number of those observed during the inspection.
I recommend correction of these noted items and any others discovered during repair by a qualified electrician.
Although "3-Prong" receptacles have been installed in the home, one or more receptacles are ungrounded. This is often just an indication of the age of the home when house wiring did not have an additional ground wire such as Knob & Tube and later NM Cable.
Some electricians believe that the 3-prong receptacles should be removed and 2-prong be installed, others believe in adding GFCI and AFCI receptacles to improve safety.
This is for your information.
Noisy fan, may need to be replaced.
Wiring is required to be secured at certain intervals. Unsecured wiring present. Recommend correction by a licensed electrician
In this case surface mounted sheathed cable also present which is not allowed.
The Smoke Detectors responded to the TEST button during the inspection but should be tested again upon moving in to home, new batteries installed at that time and yearly after that. Test Monthly.
Smoke detectors are typically rated for about 10 years. If these units are at or near this age, I recommend replacing the units rather than risking simply replacing the batteries.
Smoke detectors are arguably the cheapest insurance you have against death or injury in case of a fire.
There were no Carbon Monoxide Detectors observed at the time of the inspection. This is a life safety issue. I recommend these be installed according to today's requirements due to the presence of fuel burning appliances and / or an attached garage.
CO alarms are required outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms in all newly constructed one and two-family dwellings and townhomes not more than three stories.
|7.2||Normal Operating Controls||X|
|7.4||Presence of Installed Heat Source in Each Room||X|
|7.5||Condensate Drain System||X|
Most HVAC (heating, ventilating and air-conditioning) systems in houses are relatively simple in design and operation. They consist of four components: controls, fuel supply, heating or cooling unit, and distribution system. The adequacy of heating and cooling is often quite subjective and depends upon occupant perceptions that are affected by the distribution of air, the location of return-air vents, air velocity, the sound of the system in operation, and similar characteristics.
It's your job to get the HVAC system inspected and serviced every year. And if you're system as an air filter, be sure to keep that filter cleaned.
AFUE (Annual fuel utilization efficiency) is a metric used to measure furnace efficiency in converting fuel to energy. A higher AFUE rating means greater energy efficiency. 90% or higher meets the Department of Energy's Energy Star program standard.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the heating system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the heating system; B. the energy source; and C. the heating method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any heating system that did not operate; and B. if the heating system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or evaluate the interior of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, heat exchangers, combustion air systems, fresh-air intakes, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, geothermal systems, or solar heating systems. B. inspect fuel tanks or underground or concealed fuel supply systems. C. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. light or ignite pilot flames. E. activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. override electronic thermostats. G. evaluate fuel quality. H. verify thermostat calibration, heat anticipation, or automatic setbacks, timers, programs or clocks.
Although working at the time of the inspection the furnace is very old and well past its anticipated life expectancy. This system will likely need to be replaced soon. Consult with licensed heating and cooling specialist for suggestions and price options prior to the end of your inspection contingency recommended
One or more HVAC duct joints are sealed with what appears to be asbestos tape, this is common to see in this era of home. Stable, intact asbestos is generally considered safe if undisturbed. Asbestos is considered dangerous when particles become airborne. I recommend consulting with a qualified specialist if concerned. Click the link for more information.
|8.2||Condensate Drain System||X|
There is no central air conditioning present in this home. This is for your information.
Condensate Drain System not present.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the cooling system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the cooling system; and B. the cooling method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any cooling system that did not operate; and B. if the cooling system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system. B. inspect portable window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters. C. operate equipment or systems if the exterior temperature is below 65 Fahrenheit, or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. D. inspect or determine thermostat calibration, cooling anticipation, or automatic setbacks or clocks. E. examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gases, or coolant leakage.
|9.1||Main Water Shut-off Device||X|
|9.2||Fuel Storage & Distribution Systems||X||X|
|9.3||Outside Faucets / Hose Bibs||X||X|
|9.4||Water Supply, Distribution Systems & Fixtures||X||X|
|9.5||Drain, Waste, & Vent Systems||X||X|
|9.6||Hot Water Systems, Controls, Flues & Vents||X||X|
It's your job to know where the main water and fuel shutoff valves are located. And be sure to keep an eye out for any water and plumbing leaks.
Recommend becoming familiar on how to shut off the gas supply to the house in case of emergency. You should also become familiar with individual gas valves at each gas burning appliance.
The water supply system is old. While there have been some repairs and modifications along the way, there remains some of what may be the original piping present. Galvanized pipes are typically rated for about 50 years.
I did not observe any leaks during the inspection but the plumbing drain system is old and may need to be replaced soon. The system is comprised of mainly cast iron and galvanized steel pipes, with some later ABS repair sections. Cast iron drain systems are typically rated for about 50-60 years. This is for your information.
I recommend flushing & servicing your water heater tank annually for optimal performance. Water temperature should be set to at least 120 degrees F to kill microbes and no higher than 130 degrees F to prevent scalding.
Water heaters are typically warranted for 6 years and have an anticipated life of 10-12 years. Use this information to anticipate replacement recommended.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the main water supply shut-off valve; B. the main fuel supply shut-off valve; C. the water heating equipment, including the energy source, venting connections, temperature/pressure-relief (TPR) valves, Watts 210 valves, and seismic bracing; D. interior water supply, including all fixtures and faucets, by running the water; E. all toilets for proper operation by flushing; F. all sinks, tubs and showers for functional drainage; G. the drain, waste and vent system; and H. drainage sump pumps with accessible floats. II. The inspector shall describe: A. whether the water supply is public or private based upon observed evidence; B. the location of the main water supply shut-off valve; C. the location of the main fuel supply shut-off valve; D. the location of any observed fuel-storage system; and E. the capacity of the water heating equipment, if labeled. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously; B. deficiencies in the installation of hot and cold water faucets; C. mechanical drain stops that were missing or did not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs; and D. toilets that were damaged, had loose connections to the floor, were leaking, or had tank components that did not operate. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. light or ignite pilot flames. B. measure the capacity, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. inspect the interior of flues or chimneys, combustion air systems, water softener or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-off valves, floor drains, lawn sprinkler systems, or fire sprinkler systems. D. determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature or adequacy of the water supply. E. determine the water quality, potability or reliability of the water supply or source. F. open sealed plumbing access panels. G. inspect clothes washing machines or their connections. H. operate any valve. I. test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage or functional overflow protection. J. evaluate the compliance with conservation, energy or building standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, backflow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. determine whether there are sufficient cleanouts for effective cleaning of drains. M. evaluate fuel storage tanks or supply systems. N. inspect wastewater treatment systems. O. inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. inspect water storage tanks, pressure pumps, or bladder tanks. Q. evaluate wait time to obtain hot water at fixtures, or perform testing of any kind to water heater elements. R. evaluate or determine the adequacy of combustion air. S. test, operate, open or close: safety controls, manual stop valves, temperature/pressure-relief valves, control valves, or check valves. T. examine ancillary or auxiliary systems or components, such as, but not limited to, those related to solar water heating and hot water circulation. U. determine the existence or condition of polybutylene plumbing. V. inspect or test for gas or fuel leaks, or indications thereof.
It appears the fuel oil barrel remains in the ground. This is common to see in homes of this age, oil furnaces were very common for a long time. I do not check for the presence of remaining fuel in the tank, nor do I conduct leak testing or soil sampling of the adjacent areas. I believe United Oil provides a service for inspecting the tank and may be a resource for additional services. Their number is (208) 733-7033.
Natural gas or propane appliances must be installed so that the flame is no less than 18" from the garage floor.
The exception is for FVIR water heaters (flame vapor Ignition resistant).
Recommend further evaluation by a licensed specialist.
This is an old house. The outside faucets are not the freezeless type. In some old houses, outside faucets can be shut off inside the crawlspace or basement and the valve opened up outside for the winter.
If this is not the case here, consider installing the freezeless type or insulation the outside faucets in the winter to prevent freeze up and potential damaged pipes.
Faucet leaks at indicated location(s). Recommend repair or replacement.
Poor water flow observed when more than one fixture in use. This may be the result of old pipes and hard water. Galvanized pipes corrode from the inside and flow is reduced over time.
Replacement of old pipes likely necessary. Consult with a qualified plumber for cost estimates recommend.
Shower had slow/poor drainage. Recommend clearing drain line.
Washing machine drain is 1 1/2" rather than the 2" drain installed for today's modern appliances, this may not be large enough to handle the volume of water discharged by some newer washing machines.
Consider hiring a plumber to upgrade to a 2" drain for the washer.
The TP&R (Temperature & Pressure Relief) Valve on the water heater needs a 3/4 threaded pipe to discharge to a floor drain, to an indirect waste receptor, or to the outdoors, I recommend repair by a qualified plumber.
Water heater showed normal signs of wear and tear. Water heaters are typically warranted for 6 years and last 10-12. Recommend monitoring it's effectiveness, budget for replacement recommended.
|10.6||Steps, Stairways & Railings||X||X|
|10.7||Countertops & Cabinets||X|
The floor coverings were inspected for safety issues only. Floor coverings can be expected to be worn according to the age of the home.
Damaged areas hidden by rugs or other items are disclaimed by the inspector.
The interior walls were inspected only signs of normal use were observed during the inspection unless otherwise noted.
While serviceable, the cabinetry and countertops are old. Some modifications may have been made along the way.
This is to be expected with older homes.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. a representative number of doors and windows by opening and closing them; B. floors, walls and ceilings; C. stairs, steps, landings, stairways and ramps; D. railings, guards and handrails; and E. garage vehicle doors and the operation of garage vehicle door openers, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. a garage vehicle door as manually-operated or installed with a garage door opener. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails for steps, stairways, guards and railings; B. photo-electric safety sensors that did not operate properly; and C. any window that was obviously fogged or displayed other evidence of broken seals. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. inspect floor coverings or carpeting. C. inspect central vacuum systems. D. inspect for safety glazing. E. inspect security systems or components. F. evaluate the fastening of islands, countertops, cabinets, sink tops or fixtures. G. move furniture, stored items, or any coverings, such as carpets or rugs, in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. H. move suspended-ceiling tiles. I. inspect or move any household appliances. J. inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage, except as otherwise noted. K. verify or certify the proper operation of any pressure-activated auto-reverse or related safety feature of a garage door. L. operate or evaluate any security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including their compliance with local, state or federal standards. M. operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations or devices. N. operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles, tilt guards/latches, or signal lights. O. inspect microwave ovens or test leakage from microwave ovens. P. operate or examine any sauna, steamgenerating equipment, kiln, toaster, ice maker, coffee maker, can opener, bread warmer, blender, instant hot-water dispenser, or other small, ancillary appliances or devices. Q. inspect elevators. R. inspect remote controls. S. inspect appliances. T. inspect items not permanently installed. U. discover firewall compromises. V. inspect pools, spas or fountains. W. determine the adequacy of whirlpool or spa jets, water force, or bubble effects. X. determine the structural integrity or leakage of pools or spas.
One or more windows have cracked or broken glass or thermal panes.
Damage observed at tub or shower wall very likely moisture related. Repairs will be necessary here there may be hidden damage.
Windows in showers are usually a product of a tub only configuration being converted into a tub / shower combination. If not properly prepared this can be a source of moisture intrusion into the wall. Consider using a curtain to keep water off of and out of the window opening when showering.
No graspable handrails present, there are specific requirements for handrail profiles. Typically when there are 4 or more risers present, a handrail is required. This is a safety hazard. Recommend a qualified handyman install a compliant handrail.
Laundry appliances are considered personal property and are not inspected.
Connections at plumbing and drains are visually inspected and any defects observed noted. Understand that washing machines connected at the time of the inspection may be hiding leaking water supply valves. Older 1 1/2" washer drains may not be adequate in size for some machines which cannot be determined without cycling that machine.
Other defects such as dryer vent connections behind the appliance are difficult to see under good conditions and nearly impossible under many due to occupant contents.
Be cautious when running your laundry appliances for the first few times and if you are not capable of connecting them yourself, hire a qualified professional to connect them for you.
Range was not fastened to the floor. This poses a safety hazard to children. Recommend a qualified contractor secure range so it can't tip.
There was no power to the range at the time of the inspection. I did not test the range or oven. I recommend function of this appliance be demonstrated prior to the end of your inspection contingency.
|12.2||Basements & Crawlspaces||X||X|
|12.6||Columns and Piers||X|
One of the most common problems in a house is a wet basement or foundation. You should monitor the walls and floors for signs of water penetration, such as dampness, water stains, peeling paint, efflorescence, and rust on exposed metal parts. In a finished basement, look for rotted or warped wood paneling and doors, loose floor tiles, and mildew stains. It may come through the walls or cracks in the floor, or from backed-up floor drains, leaky plumbing lines, or a clogged air-conditioner condensate line.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the foundation; B. the basement; C. the crawlspace; and D. structural components. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of foundation; and B. the location of the access to the under-floor space. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of wood in contact with or near soil; B. observed indications of active water penetration; C. observed indications of possible foundation movement, such as sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames, and unlevel floors; and D. any observed cutting, notching and boring of framing members that may, in the inspector's opinion, present a structural or safety concern. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter any crawlspace that is not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to him/herself. B. move stored items or debris. C. operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. identify the size, spacing, span or location or determine the adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists, joist spans or support systems. E. provide any engineering or architectural service. F. report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.
Minor cracking was noted at the foundation. This is common as concrete ages and shrinkage / surface cracks are normal. Recommend monitoring for more serious shifting/displacement.
Here is an informational article on foundation cracks.
Bare earth exposed in the crawlspace. Reposition or add 6 mil visqueen as needed to achieve 100% coverage recommended.
This keeps moisture and odors out of the crawlspace environment and prevents microbial growth on the dirt.
Subfloor has some water damage at the toilet area. A new subfloor layer appears to have been added but the damaged remaining section has what may be microbial growth present.
I recommend further inspection by a mold specialist.