Jeremy Brett

Agent Name
This Inspection Report is based on a visual, non-intrusive inspection. While every effort is made to identify and report all current or potential issues with a home, please understand that there are simply areas that cannot be seen- such as within the wall structure, etc. An inspector is considered to be a "Generalist" in that the job is to identify and report potential issues rather than diagnose the specific cause or repair items. For this reason, you will find that it is often recommended to seek further evaluation by a qualified professional such as an Electrical, Plumbing, or Roofing contractor.
The report includes Informational data on various components of the home, Limitations that affected the ability to inspect certain items/areas, and Recommendations for items that require immediate or future attention.
Observations and Recommendations are organized into three categories by level of severity:
1) Minor/Maintenance Issues - Primarily comprised of small cosmetic items and simple Handyman or do-it-yourself maintenance items. These observations are more informational in nature and represent more of a future to-do list rather than something you might use as a negotiation or Seller-repair item. A Summary Report can be created should you choose to view a report without these minor items or informational data.
2) Moderate Recommendations - Most items typically fall into this category. These observations may require a qualified contractor to evaluate further and repair or replace but the cost is somewhat reasonable.
3) Significant and/or Safety Concerns - This category is composed of immediate safety concerns or items that could represent a significant expense to repair/replace.
This is meant to be an Honest, Impartial, Third-Party assessment. Oftentimes, in the mind of a buyer, minor items are given too much weight and significant items are under-appreciated. That being said, I would be more than happy to discuss anything in more detail. Please reach out if you have any questions or need further explanation on anything identified in this report.
I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or the eaves: A. the roof-covering materials; B. the gutters; C. the downspouts; D. the vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, and other roof penetrations; and E. the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of roof-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of active roof leaks. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. walk on any roof surface. B. predict the service life expectancy. C. inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. move insulation. F. inspect antennae, satellite dishes, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments. G. walk on any roof areas that appear, in the inspectors opinion, to be unsafe. H. walk on any roof areas if doing so might, in the inspector's opinion, cause damage. I. perform a water test. J. warrant or certify the roof. K. confirm proper fastening or installation of any roof-covering material.
Debris has accumulated in the gutters which can:
- Limit the effectiveness of moving water away from home;
- Keep gutters from drying which accelerates water damage to gutters (causing leaks);
- Allow water to run up the back side of fascia potentially causing damage to the supportive structure.
Recommend: Cleaning gutters and downspout locations to facilitate water flow; installing over the gutter guards will limit debris buildup and reduce cleaning requirement.
Here is a DIY resource for cleaning your gutters.
One or more downspouts drain too close to the home's foundation. This can result in excessive moisture in the soil at the foundation, which can lead to foundation/structural movement. Recommend a qualified contractor adjust downspout extensions to drain at least 4-6 feet from the foundation.
Here is a helpful DIY link and video on draining water flow away from your house.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the exterior wall-covering materials, flashing and trim; B. all exterior doors; C. adjacent walkways and driveways; D. stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps; E. porches, patios, decks, balconies and carports; F. railings, guards and handrails; G. the eaves, soffits and fascia; H. a representative number of windows; and I. vegetation, surface drainage, retaining walls and grading of the property, where they may adversely affect the structure due to moisture intrusion. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of exterior wall-covering materials. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. inspect items that are not visible or readily accessible from the ground, including window and door flashing. C. inspect or identify geological, geotechnical, hydrological or soil conditions. D. inspect recreational facilities or playground equipment. E. inspect seawalls, breakwalls or docks. F. inspect erosion-control or earth-stabilization measures. G. inspect for safety-type glass. H. inspect underground utilities. I. inspect underground items. J. inspect wells or springs. K. inspect solar, wind or geothermal systems. L. inspect swimming pools or spas. M. inspect wastewater treatment systems, septic systems or cesspools. N. inspect irrigation or sprinkler systems. O. inspect drainfields or dry wells. P. determine the integrity of multiple-pane window glazing or thermal window seals.
Cracks, holes, settlement, heaving and/or deterioration were found. Recommend that qualified contractor repair as necessary.
Deck is showing signs of weathering and/or water damage. Recommend paint/water sealant/weatherproofing be applied.
Here is a helpful article on staining & sealing your deck.
Fence leaning/loose and or not secure. This can be caused by deterioration/age/unsecured fence posts and or boards. Recommend contractor for repairs.
Trees/shrubs near the structure can cause premature wear/damage to house coverings and can lead to improper drainage of water. Roots systems can also cause damage to foundation. Recommend arborist/landscaper to trim/remove.
Shelving has been installed in garage. This can be a potential safety hazard due to the risk of collapse, especially if persons climb onto or heavy items are stored on the shelves. It is recommended for safety that a qualified contractor assess for structural stability.
The garage-house door isn't equipped with an automatic closing device such as sprung hinges or self closing arm. This door should close and latch automatically to prevent vehicle fumes from entering living spaces and/or to slow the spread of fire from the garage to living spaces. A qualified contractor should install automatic closing device(s) as necessary, and as per standard building practices, so this door closes and latches automatically.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the foundation; B. the basement; C. the crawlspace; and D. structural components. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of foundation; and B. the location of the access to the under-floor space. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. observed indications of wood in contact with or near soil; B. observed indications of active water penetration; C. observed indications of possible foundation movement, such as sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames, and unlevel floors; and D. any observed cutting, notching and boring of framing members that may, in the inspector's opinion, present a structural or safety concern. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter any crawlspace that is not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to him/herself. B. move stored items or debris. C. operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. identify the size, spacing, span or location or determine the adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists, joist spans or support systems. E. provide any engineering or architectural service. F. report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.
Inspection of the furnace heat exchanger for evidence of cracks can only be done by dismantling the unit. This is beyond the scope of this inspection.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the heating system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the heating system; B. the energy source; and C. the heating method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any heating system that did not operate; and B. if the heating system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect or evaluate the interior of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, heat exchangers, combustion air systems, fresh-air intakes, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, geothermal systems, or solar heating systems. B. inspect fuel tanks or underground or concealed fuel supply systems. C. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. light or ignite pilot flames. E. activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. override electronic thermostats. G. evaluate fuel quality. H. verify thermostat calibration, heat anticipation, or automatic setbacks, timers, programs or clocks.
Recommend a qualified HVAC contractor clean, service and certify furnace upon possession. Furnace should be cleaned and serviced annually. A furnace maintenance program is also a good option to prolong the life of the heating system.
Here is a resource on the importance of furnace maintenance.
Filters should be checked every 1 to 3 months and replaced as necessary as per manufacturer. Homes in areas with high indoor levels of airborne pollen or dust may need to have air filters checked and changed more frequently.
Furnace compartment dirty at time of inspection. Recommend having furnace serviced and cleaned by HVAC technician upon possession.
Ventor/air induction motor was excessively noisy during operation. Recommend a qualified HVAC technician evaluate and repair.
When using the system for the first time after the winter, it should be activated with the thermostat temperature turned up. Allow to acclimatize for 24 hours before lowering temperature to comfortable level. Recommend HVAC technician to service air conditioning system before using. Not operated during inspection.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the cooling system, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the location of the thermostat for the cooling system; and B. the cooling method. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. any cooling system that did not operate; and B. if the cooling system was deemed inaccessible. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system. B. inspect portable window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters. C. operate equipment or systems if the exterior temperature is below 65 Fahrenheit, or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. D. inspect or determine thermostat calibration, cooling anticipation, or automatic setbacks or clocks. E. examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gases, or coolant leakage.
Evaluation of and determining the adequacy or completeness of the following items are not included in this inspection: water recirculation pumps; solar water heating systems; Energy Smart or energy saver controls; catch pan drains. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not provide an estimate of remaining life on water heaters, does not determine if water heaters are appropriately sized, or perform any evaluations that require a pilot light to be lit or a shut-off valve to be operated.
Due to the nature of flooring instal (covering sump pit), access to the sump pump was not available. Unable to manually test the pump. Recommend removing flooring and creating access to sump pump/pit. Further evaluation and testing as recommended also..
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the main water supply shut-off valve; B. the main fuel supply shut-off valve; C. the water heating equipment, including the energy source, venting connections, temperature/pressure-relief (TPR) valves, Watts 210 valves, and seismic bracing; D. interior water supply, including all fixtures and faucets, by running the water; E. all toilets for proper operation by flushing; F. all sinks, tubs and showers for functional drainage; G. the drain, waste and vent system; and H. drainage sump pumps with accessible floats. II. The inspector shall describe: A. whether the water supply is public or private based upon observed evidence; B. the location of the main water supply shut-off valve; C. the location of the main fuel supply shut-off valve; D. the location of any observed fuel-storage system; and E. the capacity of the water heating equipment, if labeled. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously; B. deficiencies in the installation of hot and cold water faucets; C. mechanical drain stops that were missing or did not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs; and D. toilets that were damaged, had loose connections to the floor, were leaking, or had tank components that did not operate. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. light or ignite pilot flames. B. measure the capacity, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. inspect the interior of flues or chimneys, combustion air systems, water softener or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-off valves, floor drains, lawn sprinkler systems, or fire sprinkler systems. D. determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature or adequacy of the water supply. E. determine the water quality, potability or reliability of the water supply or source. F. open sealed plumbing access panels. G. inspect clothes washing machines or their connections. H. operate any valve. I. test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage or functional overflow protection. J. evaluate the compliance with conservation, energy or building standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, backflow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. determine whether there are sufficient cleanouts for effective cleaning of drains. M. evaluate fuel storage tanks or supply systems. N. inspect wastewater treatment systems. O. inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. inspect water storage tanks, pressure pumps, or bladder tanks. Q. evaluate wait time to obtain hot water at fixtures, or perform testing of any kind to water heater elements. R. evaluate or determine the adequacy of combustion air. S. test, operate, open or close: safety controls, manual stop valves, temperature/pressure-relief valves, control valves, or check valves. T. examine ancillary or auxiliary systems or components, such as, but not limited to, those related to solar water heating and hot water circulation. U. determine the existence or condition of polybutylene plumbing. V. inspect or test for gas or fuel leaks, or indications thereof.
At the main water shutoff, the pressure relief valve was leaking. Recommend that a qualified plumber repair or replace the valve as necessary.
Pipes located outdoors are subject to freezing once outdoor temperatures drop. A frozen pipe can burst and can mean costly repairs and potential structural damage. Prevention is the key to avoiding burst pipes during the winter. Hose bibbs, or faucets, are an outdoor plumbing fixture found on most houses. Winterizing your home's hose bibbs is an annual maintenance task that should be completed before the freezing temperatures arrive.
1. Disconnect any hoses from the hose bibbs. Drain the water from the hoses. Store the hoses inside during the winter to prevent damage.
2.Turn off any valves/shutoffs inside your home or crawl space that supplies water just to the outdoor faucets. If you don't have a dedicated valve for the faucets, skip to Step 4.
3.Turn the handles to open the hose bibbs. Let the water in the pipes drain. Leave the faucets open throughout the winter to release the pressure caused by the freezing of any remaining water inside the pipes.
4.Place insulating covers over all your hose bibbs. Check your model for instructions about the method it uses for properly securing the cover over the faucet.
One or more plumbing water supply pipes had substandard support or were not secured (loose). Leaks may occur as a result. Recommend that a plumber install hangers or secure pipes per standard building practices.
Kitec plumbing was found in the structure. Kitec is a brand of plastic piping used in hot and cold water supplies to plumbing fixtures, and in heating systems with boilers. It was made from 1995 to 2007.
A class action lawsuit was issued in 2011 against IPEX Inc., the manufacturer of Kitec, alleging that the Kitec System may be subject to premature failure and otherwise may not perform in accordance with the reasonable expectation of users.
One alleged issue is with fittings that contain high levels of zinc, resulting in corrosion and weakness over time.
Recommend further evaluation by a qualified licensed plumber to identify the plumbing and confirm if the Kitec product in this structure falls under any class action lawsuit and to make repairs as necessary.
Sump pump drain lines drains near location which will allow for water to re-enter space. Recommend correction by directing water away from the home foundation/crawlspace.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detectors. Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors should be provided at every floor level of every home, including basements and crawl spaces. (Even if they are present during the inspection, we recommend replacing detectors.) Smoke detectors should be close to sleeping areas, and carbon monoxide detectors should be in any room with a wood-burning stove or fireplace. Once you take possession of the home, detectors should be tested regularly, and replaced every 10 years. If unsure of the age of a smoke detector, it should be replaced. Smoke detector batteries should be replaced annually.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. the service drop; B. the overhead service conductors and attachment point; C. the service head, gooseneck and drip loops; D. the service mast, service conduit and raceway; E. the electric meter and base; F. service-entrance conductors; G. the main service disconnect; H. panelboards and over-current protection devices (circuit breakers and fuses); I. service grounding and bonding; J. a representative number of switches, lighting fixtures and receptacles, including receptacles observed and deemed to be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)-protected using the AFCI test button, where possible; K. all ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacles and circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs using a GFCI tester, where possible; and L. smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the main service disconnect's amperage rating, if labeled; and B. the type of wiring observed. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. deficiencies in the integrity of the serviceentrance conductors insulation, drip loop, and vertical clearances from grade and roofs; B. any unused circuit-breaker panel opening that was not filled; C. the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch-circuit wiring, if readily visible; D. any tested receptacle in which power was not present, polarity was incorrect, the cover was not in place, the GFCI devices were not properly installed or did not operate properly, evidence of arcing or excessive heat, and where the receptacle was not grounded or was not secured to the wall; and E. the absence of smoke detectors. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. insert any tool, probe or device into the main panelboard, sub-panels, distribution panelboards, or electrical fixtures. B. operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. remove panelboard cabinet covers or dead fronts. D. operate or re-set over-current protection devices or overload devices. E. operate or test smoke or carbon-monoxide detectors or alarms F. inspect, operate or test any security, fire or alarms systems or components, or other warning or signaling systems. G. measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service equipment, if not visibly labeled. H. inspect ancillary wiring or remote-control devices. I. activate any electrical systems or branch circuits that are not energized. J. inspect low-voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring, or any timecontrolled devices. K. verify the service ground. L. inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including, but not limited to: generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. M. inspect spark or lightning arrestors. N. inspect or test de-icing equipment. O. conduct voltage-drop calculations. P. determine the accuracy of labeling. Q. inspect exterior lighting.
The electrical service panel did not have proper clearances to provide quick access for an emergency disconnect. This is a safety hazard when opening or working in panels. Electric panels should have the following clearances:
Recommend that a qualified contractor repair or make modifications per standard building practices. If panels must be opened for repairs, then a qualified electrician should perform repairs.
The doorbell was broken/damaged/inoperable at the time of the inspection. Recommend correction by a Handyman/DIY. If unsure, a qualified electrician is recommended.
Light fixture did not respond to the switch. The bulb may need to be replaced or there may be a problem with the switch, wiring or light fixture. If bulb replacement does not correct the issue, this condition may represent a potential fire hazard and the Inspector recommends that an evaluation and any necessary repairs be performed by a qualified electrical contractor.
This inspection does not address compliance of apartments, bedrooms and kitchens in the basement. Consult your local Town/City for regulatory requirements.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. a representative number of doors and windows by opening and closing them; B. floors, walls and ceilings; C. stairs, steps, landings, stairways and ramps; D. railings, guards and handrails; and E. garage vehicle doors and the operation of garage vehicle door openers, using normal operating controls. II. The inspector shall describe: A. a garage vehicle door as manually-operated or installed with a garage door opener. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails for steps, stairways, guards and railings; B. photo-electric safety sensors that did not operate properly; and C. any window that was obviously fogged or displayed other evidence of broken seals. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. inspect floor coverings or carpeting. C. inspect central vacuum systems. D. inspect for safety glazing. E. inspect security systems or components. F. evaluate the fastening of islands, countertops, cabinets, sink tops or fixtures. G. move furniture, stored items, or any coverings, such as carpets or rugs, in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. H. move suspended-ceiling tiles. I. inspect or move any household appliances. J. inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage, except as otherwise noted. K. verify or certify the proper operation of any pressure-activated auto-reverse or related safety feature of a garage door. L. operate or evaluate any security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including their compliance with local, state or federal standards. M. operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations or devices. N. operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles, tilt guards/latches, or signal lights. O. inspect microwave ovens or test leakage from microwave ovens. P. operate or examine any sauna, steam generating equipment, kiln, toaster, ice maker, coffee maker, can opener, bread warmer, blender, instant hot-water dispenser, or other small, ancillary appliances or devices. Q. inspect elevators. R. inspect remote controls. S. inspect appliances. T. inspect items not permanently installed. U. discover firewall compromises. V. inspect pools, spas or fountains. W. determine the adequacy of whirlpool or spa jets, water force, or bubble effects. X. determine the structural integrity or leakage of pools or spas.
One or more doors wouldn't latch or were difficult to latch. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary. For example, by adjusting latch plates or locksets.
Condensation or staining was visible between multi-pane glass in one or more windows. This usually indicates that the seal between the panes of glass has failed or that the desiccant material that absorbs moisture is saturated. As a result, the view through the window may be obscured, the window's R-value will be reduced. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and repair windows as necessary. Usually, this means replacing the glass or the entire window.
Note: Be aware that evidence of failed seals or desiccant may be more or less visible depending on the temperature, humidity, sunlight, etc. Windows or glass-paneled doors other than those that the inspector identified may also have failed seals and need glass replaced. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to identify every window with failed seals or desiccant.
Wood flooring in one or more areas was worn, deteriorated or damaged. Recommend that a qualified contractor refinish and/or repair wood flooring as necessary.
R-VALUE BY TYPE
The resistance to heat moving through insulation is measured as "R-value", the higher the R-value, the greater the resistance to heat flow through the insulation.
I. The inspector shall inspect: A. insulation in unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; B. ventilation of unfinished spaces, including attics, crawlspaces and foundation areas; and C. mechanical exhaust systems in the kitchen, bathrooms and laundry area. II. The inspector shall describe: A. the type of insulation observed; and B. the approximate average depth of insulation observed at the unfinished attic floor area or roof structure. III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: A. the general absence of insulation or ventilation in unfinished spaces. IV. The inspector is not required to: A. enter the attic or any unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or, in the inspector's opinion, pose a safety hazard. B. move, touch or disturb insulation. C. move, touch or disturb vapor retarders. D. break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels or covers. E. identify the composition or R-value of insulation material. F. activate thermostatically operated fans. G. determine the types of materials used in insulation or wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers or wiring. H. determine the adequacy of ventilation.
Insulation has been disturbed and shows gaps/voids in various areas of attic. This can cause cold hot areas in the living space of the home. Recommend redistributing insulation and installing extra insulation to prevent ice damming and for energy savings/comfort if comfort level is inadequate.
Mouse raceways and holes found in insulation. Insulation disturbed. Recommend pest control and redistributing (fluff up) of insulation.
All appliances listed are tested and working at time of inspection unless otherwise noted.
10.1 The inspector shall inspect: F. installed ovens, ranges, surface cooking appliances, microwave ovens, dishwashing machines, and food waste grinders by using normal operating controls to activate the primary function. 10.2 The inspector is NOT required to inspect: G. installed and free-standing kitchen and laundry appliances not listed in Section 10.1.F. H. appliance thermostats including their calibration, adequacy of heating elements, self cleaning oven cycles, indicator lights, door seals, timers, clocks, timed features, and other specialized features of the appliance. I. operate, or con rm the operation of every control and feature of an inspected appliance.
Recommend changing rubber/plastic laundry hoses to braided stainless type to prevent bursting/failure
Replace plastic or foil, accordion-type ducting material with rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. Most manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, which provides maximum airflow. The flexible plastic or foil type duct can more easily trap lint and is more susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the airflow. Flexible Nylon ducting is no longer approved in most areas for dryer venting due to the possibility of a fire hazard and has never been approved for use on gas dryers. Clean the dryer vent and exhaust duct periodically. Check the outside dryer vent while the dryer is operating to make sure exhaust air is escaping. If it is not, the vent or the exhaust duct may be blocked. A handyman is recommended for periodic cleaning of vent and duct.